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Tire Pressure and camber adjustments

Discussion in 'Chit Chat Room' started by Bob Peirce, Nov 14, 2017.

  1. Rudski

    Rudski Alien


    Bob, have a fiddle around with your FOV and graphics setup because once your FOV is set correctly it should help improve the "how fast am i going" feeling. The problem here is also two fold, first you need to set the correct FOV but if you have had your FOV set wrong for a very very long time and then one day change it to a more correct setting, it will take much longer for you to adjust because things will look way way different. Nordschleife is a great example, if you have your FOV set wrong the track may feel more flatter compared to an accurate FOV which will show lots and lots of hills and other undulations in the ground.

    I look at the speedo at certain places but only to compare the previous lap (speed traps). The corner before the longest straight is the MOST important corner on any given track.

    I could be wrong here but you know what comes to mind? Rhythm. Once you've done enough laps in a single car and feel comfortable I try to then set a rhythm because it all comes down to rhythm for me.
     
    bgil66 and Tim Meuris like this.
  2. Bob Peirce

    Bob Peirce Racer

    Based on driving the two tracks I have actually driven I think my FOV is probably okay, although I may revise that sentiment once I get a lot more familiar with this whole process.

    Part of the feeling of speed is the 718 boxster is actually a little quicker than my 2012 Cayman, at least the AC version. Until I get more familiar with it I need to check my speed to be sure it isn't "unrealiastic." This is compounded in that my alignment is set to match my car (less negative front camber) not the 718. Consequently, I have a tendency to enter some turns at much too high a speed. Then I overcompensate by entering too slow. I think all of this is an experience issues, or as you say, rhythm.

    OTOH, and offsetting to some extent, is it is very easy to get into ABS, which I try to avoid on track because I don't want to start to depend on it. In fact the whole brake feeling is wrong, too much pedal travel. This is actually great for modulating your braking except there is much less travel in my car so I don't feel like I am actually learning anything.

    This may be totally wrong but I am trying to adapt the AC car to be like my physical car rather than trying to adapt my driving to the AC car. At this point my only reason for using AC is that people have created tracks I know for it and the 718 is pretty close to my car.
     
  3. Cote Dazur

    Cote Dazur Alien

    If you really are after a realistic FOV, you need to get some VR goggles, that will put you inside your Cayman, with a 1/1 FOV, nothing compare to it.
     
    chakko likes this.
  4. Bob Peirce

    Bob Peirce Racer

    I don't think I have the computing capacity for that. If I had to average it I think I'm probably only doing about 40fps right now with an occasional stutter. My understanding is you need a lot of power for these things.
     
  5. You need a load cell brake setup; a load cell brakes works off of how much pressure you apply to the pedal rather than how far you push it. A good pedal set changes the game almost as much as going from a gamepad to a wheel.
    Running the sim on a potato that yields less than 60fps isn't doing you any favors either.
     
    bgil66, LeDude83 and Tim Meuris like this.
  6. Cote Dazur

    Cote Dazur Alien

    Yes, you do.:D
     
  7. Bob Peirce

    Bob Peirce Racer

    That sounds like what I am looking for. Where do I find one for a T300RS? I'm using the two pedal setup that came with it. That's okay because I run PDK in automatic on the track and it has paddles for manual operation. Plus, I've only been doing this in AC for two weeks -- long flat learning curve!

    I did some googling and found load cells are harder and catch much higher than a typical road car but so do the brakes on my car.

    I also need an actual seat, like Openwheeler or Playseat. I've tried double sided tape but there is no way to keep the brake pedals from moving around that I have found. A solid mount looks like the way to go.
     
  8. Bob Peirce

    Bob Peirce Racer

    Yes I have the capacity or yes I need a lot more?

    At this point I'm just dipping my toes, trying to find ways to improve on-track, without spending too much more money than I already spend!
     
  9. Bob Peirce

    Bob Peirce Racer

  10. Bob Peirce

    Bob Peirce Racer

    Me, again. The Fanatec web site says this requires a Fanatic Wheel SDK for the game to control certain functions. How does that work? I can't find any information; possibly I just don't know where to look. Is it part of whatever software may be required? Normally, if it is mentioned, it is not included.
     
  11. That's probably the profiler software; looks like this on my Fanatec pedals:
    [​IMG]

    If you are going to dive headfirst into this hobby by purchasing good pedals and a rig, might as well add a proper PC also. Doesn't have to be anything high end, AC tech specs are really quite low, but you really need 60+fps.
     
  12. Bob Peirce

    Bob Peirce Racer

    It may come to that. It is already a chore to reboot into BOOTCAMP and carry the laptop downstairs to connect to my wheel and display.

    I'm already using a thumb drive to download stuff to my Mac and install it on BOOTCAMP, because I have limited space to download directly to BOOTCAMP. I can do that upstairs but it still requires multiple reboots.

    Computers of varying capability are readily available, but the key seems to be the graphics controller and it looks like that needs more than a laptop.

    Anyhow, I can live with all of that for the time being. What I can't live with is the brakes.

    BTW, Fanatec implies the mounting holes on the brakes don't align with the mounting holes on the seats. Is that correct?
     
  13. Cote Dazur

    Cote Dazur Alien

    Yes, you do.:D need a lot more
     
  14. Ace Pumpkin

    Ace Pumpkin Alien

    Gosh, get a mid end pc and don’t get baited by the shiny sim wheel stuff. Will only hurt your pocket.
    Get that load cell mod and hard mount your wheel, should set your problems.
    Enjoy!
     
    Cote Dazur likes this.
  15. Rudski

    Rudski Alien

    Don't forget to check out RSeat http://www.rseat.net/

    I have one from RSeat and can't complain at all. It's solidly built with easy instructions on how to put it all together.
     
  16. Bob Peirce

    Bob Peirce Racer

    Playseat claims to be pre-drilled for the Fanatic pedal set. Open wheeler doesn't mention it, nor does Rseat. That doesn't mean they aren't, just that they don't mention it. From Fanatec's site it looks like they have their own drill pattern, although I don't know if there is a standard for this.
     
  17. Bob Peirce

    Bob Peirce Racer

    This has drifted from the initial subject, but in playing around with the controls I found that increasing the brake gamma causes more of the action to occur early on. The pedal still goes a lot further down but I get the action I am looking for near the top. A gamma of 4 actually feels pretty good as long as I remember not to press too far. This probably isn't near as good as the Fanatic pedal set but it will help unit I can get that.

    I really wish someone would write a manual for AC. I have no idea what most of the controls do so I don't know how to change them!
     
  18. Rudski

    Rudski Alien

    Fanatec should fit perfectly with rseat cause lots of sim racers use that equipment. Just message RSeat but could you imagine releasing a sim seat that didn't work with the most popular brand..... its fits fine mate

    Check out DSD pedals if you want an even better pedal setup, compared to Fanatec and DSD is like someone said here going from a controller to a proper wheel. The difference between the Fanatec pedals and DSD imo is easy, Fanatec pedals are still "toys".
     
  19. Rudski

    Rudski Alien

    All you had to do was literally read the page. If you select the RSeat you want and then scroll down the first thing was "
    OVERVIEW FOR FULL TECHNICAL DETAILS CLICK HERE"

    If you click the link it takes you to a page where it shows every device it supports. Go to the link below, it supports all the major brands.
    http://www.rseat.net/rs1-racing-cockpit/rs1-black-black/

    I don't think they could have been more clearer.

    WHEEL
    SUPPORTED
    THRUSTMASTER T500RS
    THRUSTMASTER T300RS
    THRUSTMASTER T80 RACING WHEEL
    THRUSTMASTER T300 FERRARI GTE WHEEL
    THRUSTMASTER FERRARI 458 SPIDER
    THRUSTMASTER TX RACING WHEEL FERRARI 458 ITALIA
    FANATEC CLUBSPORT WHEEL BASE SERVO V2
    FANATEC CLUBSPORT WHEEL BASE
    FANATEC PORSCHE 911 GT2 WHEEL
    FANATEC PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS V2 WHEEL
    FANATEC FORZA MOTORSPORT CSR WHEEL
    LOGITECH G29
    LOGITECH G920
    LOGITECH G27
    LOGITECH G25
    PEDALS
    SUPPORTED
    THRUSTMASTER T500RS (F1/GT)
    THRUSTMASTER T300RS
    THRUSTMASTER T80
    THRUSTMASTER T300 FERRARI GTE
    THRUSTMASTER FERRARI 458 SPIDER
    THRUSTMASTER T3PA-PRO (F1/GT)
    THRUSTMASTER T3PA
    THRUSTMASTER TX RACING WHEEL
    FANATEC CLUBSPORT PEDALS V1/V2/V3
    FANATEC CSR ELITE PEDALS
    FANATEC CSR PEDLAS
    LOGITECH G29 PEDALS
    LOGITECH G920 PEDALS
    LOGITECH G27 PEDALS
    LOGITECH G25 PEDALS
    SHIFTER
    SUPPORTED
    THRUSTMASTER TH8RS
    THRUSTMASTER TH8A ADD-ON SHIFTER
    FANATEC CLUBSPORT SHIFTER SQ
    FANATEC CLUBSPORT SHIFTER
    LOGITECH G29 SHIFTER
    LOGITECH G920 SHIFTER
    LOGITECH G27 SHIFTER
    LOGITECH G25 SHIFTER
    DSD SHIFTER
     

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