Ahhh, fanatec clubsport pedal v2 problems, please help

I just received a set of CSP V2s and I'm having major issues. 3 days dealing with all sorts of issues.

First of all my gas was having issues with going to 100% braking and back to 0%. Also would do some spiking here and there. I then figured I'd install the drivers, I did and now they work perfect in that sense. So I figured the issue was that I didn't originally have the driver installed, so I uninstalled the driver and re-tested and they still work good. Weird, but whatever at least the throttle is working now.

1. Then on the second day (after installing the driver) all of a sudden the brake takes way too much force to get to 100% braking (according to Fanatec driver control panel and Windows control panel). Just 24 hours ago it was perfect. Setting the load cell to 10 (the easiest) is more like setting it to 5 or so. How did this just happen in one day? I havent even used them apart from calibration testing.

2. The load-cell issue above coincided with all the hydraulic feeling being gone in the pedals. It all of a sudden - in the space of 1 day - felt like a regular spring, non-loadcell brake. Just brake until the pedal hits a stop/"wall" and then once I hit the wall then I need to push more and more against the load cell. You literally have to push the pedal all the way until it comes to a physical stop and then that's when you have to push more and more to activate the load cell. Just the day before it had a relatively amazing fluid/hydraulic-like feel. What the??....

3. So I decided to take the oil out and refill it just in case. I filled the big cylinder all the way to the top, the very very top, but the small cyclinder I filled until the screw threads began. I wasn't sure exactly which way to do it since I cant for the life of me find a CSP V2 manual anywhere, just the vague-as-hell "manual video". Anyways, so as I am screwing the cyclinder tops back on I can't screw them all the way down because the clearish-white rings will have little sections that pop out and stick out once you tighten it to a certain point. It does this on both cylinders, I can't even tighten the reservoir tops down because the rings partially pop out!!! Ahhhhhhh

Seriously, this is the most ridiculous and cumbersome set of pedals I've ever dealt with...

Why did it all of a sudden loose it's hydraulic-like feeling over night? Why does it all of a sudden (over night) take a crap load of force to get full braking while in the weakest mode? Do I fill the oil up to the very top of the cyclinders or just to where the threads start? Why are both cylinder-top rings popping out when around 50-75% screwed in? Are the cyclinder tops not supposed to be fully screwed down?

When you spend this money and you just have problem after problem, question after question, weird behaviour after weird behaviour, while the 7 or 8 different pedals you've bought for a third or quarter of the price over the past 10 years don't give you issues, then you want to go mental. 3 days tinkering with these things like a full time job!!! Please help before I throw these things through my wall, lol

 

Get some Heisenveld pedals. More expensive but will prob save you money in the long run. Quality and feel is fantastic!

 

I'm sure someone from Fanatec support will be along soon I believe they are AC fans also.

 

You mean Heusinkveld

Getting one of those also

 

The last thing this guy needs is someone telling him to spend even more money on a totally different product - he wants what he paid for up & running properly & quite right too, surely there's lots of people with this product so someone help the guy out

 

welcome to the china's quality . Tell fanatec to send you back a new load cell. Same problem for me when I bought the same pedals and lately I had problem with the throttle...
For the hydraulic ( is a rc coilover ), the oring is too big so you dont need to screwed too hard or oring popping out and lose oil, but again, quality is very poor so can be an other thing.

 

Here's the tutorial:



As for the load-cell issue, I had a similar problem, it turned out that some plastic or glue was stuck inside the load-cell (it might be broken too).

 

Thanks guys, ya i've seen that video. It looks like he doesn't fill the oil all the way to the top, but people from other forums say to fill both reservoirs all the way completely to have as little air as possible. Hmmm.

Once you get on the load cell there is absolutely no further pedal movement at all. It's like a brick wall. Shouldn't the load-cell phase at least offer 5-10 mm of travel?

 

Hmmm, there's definitely something wrong with your pedals... The load cell itself offers less than 1 mm of travel, however there's a foam thing inside that offers the travel. Check this video @ 2.07, it talks about the foamy thing

 

Spinelli my friend I had same problem as you. I was also filling the tubes too much to make brake harder and the rings were poping out. Oil will also spill out through rings if you put too much oil in tubes, there will be too much pressure.

I couldn't get good hard feeling of the brake until I shorten it's travel and that was game changer for me. So much better feeling.

You need to dissemble the brake spring and move it one hole above. Look at that official Fanatec manual video @ around 3:20 how to dissemble it.

 

Thanks the-prodigy, and thanks for everyone's replies. I really appreciate the input. I'm going to try your suggestion, the_prodigy. So you're suggesting the third hole from the bottom?...

Someone from another forum pointed me towards this popular CSP V2 upgrade
[quote name="curveto" post="147533" timestamp="1412571460"]Here are some Amazon links...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJ814ZA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZC10Z4SLMKX9
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NKHGYK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ADMFJEYBD7NHZ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMR6Z4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A10FZ5LCUZUO1U

...that I'm going to pull the trigger on. They were the stiffest compression combination I could locate.

FWIW,
JR[/quote]Here is the problem...

$250 CSP V2 pedals + $30 shipping + $46.50 Mugen damper set + $11.50 spring + $8.50 damper oil
= $346.50...

The ProtoSimTech PT-1 3-pedal set is $380...



http://www.protosimtech.com/pst---home.html

 

Yes, it's third from the bottom, by default it's on second. Try that shortening option before you spend money on springs and stuff, shortening won't cost you anything except a little time and you will get to know your pedals better..

If you don't like it at the end, you can always revert it to default and try with the new springs and oil.

 

Sounds good. If the upper slot means a shorter throw with regards to the spring-but-no-loadcell-contact-yet phase, then I should like it.

I'm still trying to decide if I should keep these things. I hear great things about the Mugen RC damper mod but then that brings me right into the price-range of the ProtoSimTech pedals that I showed above. If I can get these Fanatecs to my liking without spending any more money, then i'll be a happy camper.

I can't even test them at the moment, I want to buy new seals for where the reservoir tops screw-in. Those seals are junk; sections of them distort and pop out when trying to screw the reservoir tops down tight.

With the stock CSP V2 damper (shock absorber), do you guys have consistent feel? I heard the pressure changes (in a bad way) due to the real cheap damper and the way it's designed...

 

Though it might not be braking like it should, I've set mine to brake at the maximum, since, like some GT3 and all F1 cars, hundreds of kilos of pressure are required to reach max braking...over 200 kilos in F1 alone. Might feel weird, but it's the way in real life.

 

Over 200 kilos..? I wanna hear where you get that info. I've heard something like a 100 kilos and you have g-forces pulling your body against the brake pedal.

GT cars propably has a lot less...

But one thing is sure. You can't replicate those forces with the load-cell thats used on CSP's.

 

Point is, the heavier the pedal force, it comes closer to the real experience. Read between the lines, don't get so picky

 

I've heard 130 kg the most on an F1 car. The g-force thing, well I hear different things from different physics gurus regarding just how much/little it helps your braking force into the pedal.

 

Yeah.. I don't think g-forces help a lot but I think it is the reason why the brake pedal needs to be as stiff as it is. Otherwise it would be impossible to modulate the brakes when braking hard or hitting a bump.

 

Actually the brake pedal is hard because of the carbon pads and rotors: the extremely high operating temperatures require enormous force to overcome the temps, which make peak braking difficult to attain. That is the mixed bag of carbon brakes: best performance, but difficult to obtain; car brakes, not as good, but easy to reach maximum rate.

 

You're right. I thought they have assisted brakes these days but apparently no.