Calibrating your force feedback wheel using wheelcheck and ffbclip

Yes, very much so. Cars like the L49 or 250f feels pretty good most of the time, but if you try to correct snap oversteer you really have to fight the wheel.

 

Yeah I certainly didn't mean to imply you not using the gyro is somehow wrong, only that gyro isn't just for DD wheels, and highlight that it's more of a preference thing, regardless of the wheel type (in the DD vs "traditional" sense) one is using.

I have a T300, and keep going back and forth between gyro and no gyro setups a little. In general I tend to prefer gyro=1, but sometimes when I try it off I like that better for a week or two before going back to gyro on for a month or two... before deciding I'll give gyro=0 a shot for a while again.

 

In case of DD it is not for the feeling but mostly out of necessity as some cars just oscillate on straights.
When I had T300 I preferred it off, but Gyro seems to be tweaked since then, at least it is less intrusive than it used to be now.

 

What is Gyro supposed to do?

 

It basically adds damping from the gyro effect of the spinning front wheels. The faster they spin the more damper.

 

IF you hold a spinning disc in your hand (fidget spinner is a GREAT example) you will feel that it is resisting any change in orientation. It's the same effect, the front wheels will want to stay heading the same direction. This is felt as a resistance in the wheel, more resistance the faster you want to change direction. Exactly the same as a damper.

 

Great analogy, what is "fidget spinner"?

 

Thank you Atle for your wonderful app!
Using a T300 can I absolutely trust ffbclip to correctly measure clipping? Seeing as my wheel isn't linear.

Have we reached a general consensus on the optimal TS control panel settings for AC?

Some sites recommend 100 overall strength, while some other sites recommend default (75%?) for the most linear ffb.

With 100% I feel that ffbclip reports clipping while my T300 should have more to give. This is generally in long turns at high speed, with a constant force.

 

Since I have a T300, i will tell you what I use. It has been measured and people have suggested that from 65%+ to 75 or 80 is the spot where you don't stress the wheel too much, but you still have a decent force curve (completely linear curve is not always a good thing, with lower power wheels). So i left it at 75% overall forces and just tweak from in-game. On AC I have the gain at 80% and most of the cars are good to drive between 100 and 110 in-game per car ffb strength. The calculated average that ffbclip provides is almost always too low.

 

I have 60-65% gain in TM control panel with FFBClip in auto-normal mode and it feels very good with all cars. Very few cars use more than 100% strength

 

Now that I got my computer working I deleted AC docs and reinstalled AC for a fresh start. I regenerated my lut and AC is feeling good. The only I don't like is a tight center wheel, which is something I don't like in PC2 on some of their cars. I don't think I feel this in rF2 at all?

Is their a way to adjust this?

 

LUT with a high end Fanatec wheel?

 

Thanks for your reply!

I have the v2 Fanatec.

This last reinstall and new lut made everything feel quite a bit different. After doing the wizerd setup a couple times but degrees are still off. Had to turn it down to 550 in game to get the wheels to match from over rotating when at 900.

The F40 has wheel lock now which didn't before without softlock enabled. I thought was strange which is great.

Spent most of last night in AC which I haven't been able to do since last year about this time.

PS I just updated my specs. Sorry.

 

Good day. After a long time I installed the AC again. I have a problem with the FFB in my fanatec CSL. I added the FFBclip and the .LUT. Modify the ff_post_process with this configuration.
[HEADER]
VERSION = 1
TYPE = LUT
ENABLED = 1
[GAMMA]
VALUE = 1
[LUT]
CURVE = CSL.lut
----------
AC options
Gain 100
filter 0
minimum strength 0
Effects 30
-------
fanatec options
1080
force dumping 0
--------
The FFB has no strength and I do not feel any effect. He does not have the strength to return and I do not feel anything. When I modify the .LUT configuration to:
[HEADER]
VERSION = 1
TYPE = GAMMA
ENABLED = 0
[GAMMA]
VALUE = 1
[LUT]
CURVE = CSL.lut

the FFB has strength again and I feel the strength of return but I do not feel good sensations. The effects of piano and road are very low. I have tried many configurations but I can not find the correct one for the FFB to transmit me good sensations and strength like my previous T300

is it necessary to have the .LUT installed ?. It was supposed to be better FFB but it becomes much worse and without strength

I spent 900 euros on all the equipment Fanatec and my T300 transmitted me much more and it was not so problematic

 

I was told not to use "My Lut".

Make sure you have usb in a black port. (2.0)

Uninstall any antivirus.

Use Windows 10 with Windows defender is probably the best now.

I had to reinstall AC a few times to default after all of that. Make sure to uninstall both AC docs.

For me AC went from weakest FFB to strongest. With lots of detail.
I'm using Fanatec v2 with the old peddles.

Edit. I'm using gyro enabled. Skip steps 0. Min dapper 0.4. Some cars feel better with a little "drl" in wheel.

 

Here is what Aris is using with his fanatec v2:

Ingame
GAIN: 100
FILTER:0
MINIMUM FORCE:0
KERB EFFECTS: 20%
ROAD EFFECTS: 40%
SLIP EFFECTS:5%
ABS EFFECTS:0%
ENCHANCED UNDERSTEER EFFECT: NO
Steering Wheel
SEn:900
FF:100
SHo:100
ABS:OFF
drI: very important, depending on what and how you drive. For proper laptimes, race cars etc, I'll put it to 2-3 (usually 2). For drifting, I'll put it to 3-4
For: 70
SPr:100
dPr:50
Most important part for me
Open installation root/System/cfg/assetto_corsa.ini
Find the following lines
[FF_EXPERIMENTAL]
ENABLE_GYRO=1 (I use 1 from default 0)
DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.2 (play between 0.1-0.3)
DAMPER_GAIN=1

 

Gain 100?

Does Gain work the same as Project Cars as in turning down detail?

After this last reinstall I have so much FFC stranth that I'm running as low as 50 gain.

I'll give this a try. Thanks Michael!!

Edit. So just to be clear, no lut. Just use stock "crazy lut"?

 

Absolutely not necessary. If you're happier without a lut then don't use it.

On a limb I'd guess there's something wrong with your lut, either something got mucked up on creation or when you did the wheelcheck. If you post them here, someone is likely to take a look and see if there's something clearly broken in those that would cause the issues you're describing.

But to reiterate, a LUT is not in any way mandatory or required. Some use it, some don't, the choice is yours.

 

@vegaguy 5555
The ff_post_process ini in your documents should look like this to NOT be using a LUT

[HEADER]
VERSION=1
TYPE=LUT
ENABLED=0