Is there any way to change ffb frequency (hz)?

Don't really want to start any argument, but I gave it a try to AMS and I really like its pure 360hz feeling. So, I tested AC options in order to get a similar feeling, but I couldn't get it. I set FF_SKIP_STEPS=0 and it really feels smoother, but not more intense. I want to feel the curbs (which I hardly feel) and road efects harder, and, after a few researches, I found you could actually change ffb frequency in last versions in system/cfg/assetto_corsa.ini, but not anymore (or at least I cannot find the option. Source: http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/16777-assetto-corsa-t500-settings-amazing-feel/ )


So, I ask you if there is in fact any way to do it.


(I also post my ffb settings if anybody thinks it's not a ffb frequency problem. I tried a lot of configurations and this is the one I like the most: gain=100 filter=0 min force=3 curbs=150 road=135)

Thanks for reading!


Edit: I forgot to say- my wheel is a t300.

 

With those settings I wouldn't be surprised if your wheel is clipping even when sitting still. I would offer my settings but I don't think you would care for them. Good luck.

 

Of course I'd care for your settings or any other help. It's just that I tried so many of them and the ones with a low ffb gain (50 or less) seem to me too weak. I tried to feel the wheel hard, but at the same time I want also to feel the road, and that setting is what I got. I can, of course, reduce the gain, but it won't make me feel the curbs harder, as I've already tried. And, after trying AMS, I reached at the conclusion that the problem is the ffb frequency. Perhaps the question would be "how can I get more feeling from the curbs (and any other road effect)?", but I think it is all a ffb frequency matter. Thanks for your answer!

 

FFB is at 333hz in AC, so I really don't think the extra 27hz between the two games is making that much difference. Here are my settings, but I don't think you are going to like them:
FFB settings with GYRO enabled:
IMPORTANT: go to :\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg and open the Assetto Corsa INI using Notepad.
Go to the [FF_EXPERIMENTAL] section and set ENABLE_ GYRO=1 and set DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.01 and save. Should look like this:
[FF_EXPERIMENTAL]
ENABLE_GYRO=1
DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.01
DAMPER_GAIN=1.0
----------------------------
In the Thrustmaster control panel:
Overall Strength: 90%
Constant: 100%
Periodic: 100%
Spring: 0%
Damper: 100%
Auto-center: By the game
--------------------
In game:
Gain: 80%
Filter: 0%
Min force: 3%
Kerb: 0%
Road: 0%
Slip: 0%
Understeer: UNCHECKED
-------------------------------------

Set the Kerb and Road sliders to 15-20% if you want to feel the curbs that are actually flat and that wouldn't actually send any feedback through the wheel in real life; anything higher than that and you are simply going to get pure clipping which is what I think is happening to you now.

Before you try my settings please go make a lap at Magione with the pedal app open and watch what is happening with the bar on the right side of the app; a little bit of red (clipping) here and there isn't bad, but anything more than that isn't good.

I haven't played AMS since back when it was Game Stock Car 2012 or something, but trying to get the same feeling from two different games that are made with devs that have different ideas of what the simulation should feel like probably isn't going to happen, even though they are both attempting to simulate the same real life 'feel'.

 

Additionally, you can read this if you want to understand the settings:

https://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...happens-to-everybody.38198/page-2#post-779063

 

Also T300 here, settings are:
driver - Overall strength: 80%
game - Gain 100%
game - min force 8%
@OP your road effect and curb settings seem very high, you could reduce them a bit and give it a try. I have both set at 20% and its very subtle this way. As those are canned effects, at higher settings I suspect them to interfere with the physics related FFB, and have the T300 spike quite a bit, its not that powerful wheel tbh.
On my wheel, with the "min force" set to 8%, it just begins to pick up road undulations, so this setting for me is quite essential. At 3% my wheel feels dead when going in a straight line.
All this does is sort of amplifying very weak forces to a level where your wheel starts to pick them up. This may well vary a bit from wheel to wheel.

 

I believe only the kerb effect is "canned", in the sense that it makes flat kerbs feel like rippled kerbs. Road effect amplifies the existing FFB.

OP, maybe trying the Gamma FFB effect would work? I forget exactly where to find it (same file you do the LUT on) or how to adjust it, but when I used it I thought it seemed to amplify all the feelings, so that might help you feel the road and kerbs more.

 

Yeah road effects do great things for my DFGT. Doesnt feel canned (dont know if it is or not, but feels good) and enhances the forces neatly. Canned kerbs i dont use, but road and slip i have 15-25%.

Another thing that made a huge deal to detail for me is that i raised my profiler (Logitech program for the wheel) overall FFB strength to 112% and lowered it in AC (gain 70% instead of 90-100% i had before), and with that i got great detailed feeling of the tarmacs smallest dips and bumps. I use LUT file as well which maybe T300 users have no need for, but for DFGT it gave me more center force.

But the settings OP showed is too high. When FFB clips (goes into red in pedal app) all FFB detail is gone and you feel nothing but a heavy wheel. I think the other guys settings should fix your issue, but you could try raise thrustmaster overall a little higher and lower it a bit in AC (gain) and see if you get more detail from that as well in case everything else fails. Worked on DFGT.

 

There is a nice tool called wheelcheck, available here: http://racingcentral.org/wheelcheck/
It can be used to measure the linearity/response characteristic of a FFB wheel.

My particular T300, after having it run at several different driver strength settings, turned out to have the most linear response at an overall strength setting of 80% in the driver.
One find back then was that the minimum force, that the wheel requires to do anything at all, increases when the overal strength in the driver was increased, and if increasing maximum strength to more then 80% in the driver, the wheel would develop a steep but linear increase of FFB output only up to about 60-70% FFB input intensity, but would then see the FFB output strength almost level off, for the remaining range of 70-100% FFB input intensity.
This in my view is kind of a cheap trick from thrustmaster, to make the wheel appear more powerful, but at the price of reducing its effective range
On my wheel this meant, that anything over 80% in the driver (and 100% gain in the game) significantly reduces the linear FFB range of the wheel, and it showed that forces are only picked up starting at around 6-7% input intensity, but not below that, hence I set it to 8% in game.

Now taking this settings as basis, and further using the clipping app, one can reduce the in game gain to avoid clipping.
However, that was no solution really, it resulted in a much to weak overall FFB.
So I ended up with a detailed and linear FFB in the lower and midrange (or better, what I want to believe it to be), but will accept clipping at higher forces. Ultimately it is a trade off.

Looking into that matter further, my conclusion is, that for a really detailed nuanced FFB with linear response over a broad range (and not ending at 4-6NM), powerful direct drive servos seem to be the only way. I've not tried one so far, but my gut feeling is that with the current crop of consumer wheels, FFB is a tepid experience only, the tip of the iceberg if you will.

 

You are not supposed to use minforce with LUT.

 

I'm not using LUT

 

Oh, my bad. I was sure that I read a post in the thrustmastre thread that you did. Sorry!

Can you explain that damper setting that you have changed in the ini file?
DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.01

 

That damper setting is where the magic happens, but I don't know why. These settings for the T300 came from @pankykapus and they make the wheel feel amazing IMO. I had a nice set LUT settings for my DFGT, but the T300 with these settings is on a whole next level; I can only dream about how nice a DD wheel must actually be.

 

I will give that a try

 

I agree that the issue here is most likely plain old clipping. Get that gain lowered, drive with the "pure" forces for a few days and then add in exaggerated effect as nescessary.

What is the default MIN_DAMPER setting? I never got to grips with the Gyro, maybe that is my problem?

 

It's hard to explain, and the wheel doesn't feel terribly different if I turn gyro effect off; with it on it basically adds a bit more 'heft' to the feel of the wheel while at speed, and also adds a bit more resistance while turning, but not in a completely linear fashion. For me it simply feels 'right' and deepens the overall immersion while driving.

 

For me the gyro is like submerging the wheel in molasses. It just feels overdamped and slow. I'll check out the min damper thing.

 

That's how it was on my DFGT

 

The default damper is much higher... Check that.

 

Ok, I finnally got to have a look at this. My DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL was set to 0.0.... Set it to 0.01 and going on track now.