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Lamborghini Huracan GT3 tyre temp Monza

Discussion in 'Chit Chat Room' started by JnJ | Rayleigh, May 12, 2016.

  1. JnJ | Rayleigh

    JnJ | Rayleigh Simracer

    So since the latest tyre model I can't get decent tyre temps (when hotlapping in Monza) with the Huracan GT3 (on soft tires obviously). The worst problem is that the rear left tire is getting too hot. As soon as it reaches about 90+°C the car oversteers like crazy and ofc it then gets even hotter..it's a vicious circle.

    TOE is about 0.01, pressure 23 psi and I have -2,6 degrees. I tried playing around with those values and always ended up in the gravel because it got even worse...I don't know what to do... :/ Anyone with an idea?
     

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  3. iVG

    iVG Alien

    Try medium tyres maybe?
     
    esox71 likes this.
  4. JnJ | Rayleigh

    JnJ | Rayleigh Simracer

    I feel that soft tyres should be better for hotlapping....or am I missing something?
     
  5. sarabwt

    sarabwt Simracer

    There isn't as much difference in grip between tyre compounds as it was before... The "main" difference now is the operating temperature of the tyre, which is 50-80 (for all the -10°C, 10% grip hardcore Nordschleife realistic settings :D) for the "soft" compound if I remember correctly (seems like @Aristotelis didn't update the FAQ yet :)) . One thing to keep in mind: the fastest tyre is the tyre that gets you around the track in one piece :D
    If you like soft tyres a lot, lower the temperature a bit :) or just be smoother :p
     
  6. JnJ | Rayleigh

    JnJ | Rayleigh Simracer

    Well that's the whole point of my concern...how do I do this?

    I will definitely try out medium tyres for hotlapping but I doubt that softs are totally undrivable with any setup. Ofc if I happen to be faster with mediums this problem disappears in thin air....
     
  7. sarabwt

    sarabwt Simracer

    After you choose car and track you can choose track contitions (grip and air temperature). Lower the air temp and you will have lower tyre temps :)
     
    colombianomd likes this.
  8. iVG

    iVG Alien

    That's cheating.
     
  9. sarabwt

    sarabwt Simracer

    [​IMG]
     
    D1visor, iVG and LeDude83 like this.
  10. JnJ | Rayleigh

    JnJ | Rayleigh Simracer

    It's 22°C air temperature...so it's not even warm for Italy :p There must be another way..
     
  11. iVG

    iVG Alien

    -2.6 camber at the rear is too much. On compression it must be exceeding -3 which is way way too much. Try putting the camber to -1.8
     
    AlleyViper likes this.
  12. AlleyViper

    AlleyViper Alien

    If you're talking about setup settings and not the read ones, IIRC default -2.6 is about ~-2.8 with the car stopped also at default height. If you lower the car and leave it at -2.6, you'll get some -3.2 to -3.6 stationary in the pit/setup readings at the right (not to mention when turning), which is a lot.
     
  13. JnJ | Rayleigh

    JnJ | Rayleigh Simracer

    So what you are saying is when I have -2.8 camber and I lower the car I have -3.x although the screen still tells me "-2.8" ? .... :D



    EDIT: I think I know what you mean now. My settings are -1.8 degree now. Camber is aprox -2.3
     
  14. AlleyViper

    AlleyViper Alien

    I'm saying that the fixed value you select on setup is different from the measured on the car, depending on height, fuel, and other parameters. So go by the real-time readings to have an idea of how it's really set.
    As an example, IIRC at default height, the car has some -2.8x camber in the rear when it's set at default "-2.6". If you lower it to some 60/65mm F/R with equal clicks on F/R, to keep that same -2.8x camber at the rear, you must then set the fixed value to ~-2.2, else, you'll get about -3.2 at the rear with "-2.6".
    If you were already talking about the read values, and not fixed setup values, never mind then ;).

    Not all pit-stops are plain, and that can throw out readings on some tracks, so confirm your setup on the Drag strip tracks.

    Edit: Btw, this car had a much lower negative default rear camber before v1.5 on it's default setup. Maybe a full degree |less|.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2016
  15. iVG

    iVG Alien

    There is 'live' screen which shows you real time camber and there is the static value which you change in the setup screen. -1.8 should give you around -2.3 live camber while stationary but that should increase as the car roll in corners. You may want to go even -1.6 static to stay below -2.4 in corners. Test and see how tyre temps are on softs. Also try higher tyre pressures - 24-25 should be ok unless you continue having temp issues.
     
  16. JnJ | Rayleigh

    JnJ | Rayleigh Simracer

    If I change the camber on the rear left am I supposed to also change it on the rear right?
     
  17. iVG

    iVG Alien

    It is... desirable :p
     
  18. AlleyViper

    AlleyViper Alien

    The only thing you can/should keep asymmetric are cold tyre pressures if needed, so they'll be balanced when hot.
     
    iVG and aphidgod like this.
  19. aphidgod

    aphidgod Alien

    Until we get into some oval tracks, at any rate.
     
    AlleyViper likes this.
  20. JnJ | Rayleigh

    JnJ | Rayleigh Simracer

    Meh...feel a little embarresed because I'm not really into setup stuff :/

    I did try out the thing with the different tyre pressures....didn't work whatsoever. You should think that lower pressure causes more friction and thus makes the tyre hotter. However if you increase pressure with constant volumen you get higher temperatures. I guess pV=mRT isn't that relevant in this case is it?
     
  21. AlleyViper

    AlleyViper Alien

    Around the optimal values, I go for "temperature increases with pressure" and it generally works in this game. This guide is handy and tells the same link, but the more knowledgeable might alert you if it has any errors.

    Instead of using pressure solely to control temperature, I prefer to set the four closer to the tyre's hot optimal pressure (33 in that car, both S and M) for optimum grip and use a slight variation of F vs R if needed to tip handling balance a bit (on top of ARB, aero, etc, if required). Then I let road temp, track, preferred camber and driving style dictate the choice between S and M for a short distance. As an example, in Mugello at 26º I'm always faster with M than S for 3-4L hotlaping in the Huracan, because S will only keep a decent temperature during one lap at ~33psi, while having to nurse them in the previous lap and then entering too hot in the next one. But I'm a bad example, because I use a gamepad and I'm by no means a fast player.
     
    iVG likes this.

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