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My personal G27 force feedback settings

Discussion in 'Steering wheels discussions' started by alligatorlizard, Dec 1, 2017.

  1. Not to ruffle feathers, but I've noticed a of of really bad advice regarding setting up the G27 for this game (and others) - so here are my conclusions after several days setting things up to feel as real as possible. As I own an actual MX5, I have set the wheel up while using this in-game car.

    The worst advice I see is to set "gain" (i.e. overall ffb strength, set in game) at around 100 (or some people say 80-ish). IMO this needs to be pretty low (around 35%) or it's WAY stiffer to turn than any actual car. Nevermind if the ffb effects feel weak this low, this setting also affects how stiff the wheel is, and if the you have to struggle to turn the wheel, it's not going to feel real! In fact you're going to have real trouble controlling slides, or even just going round tight corners. I think a lot of people whack up the ffb strength to try and eliminate the floppy feeling around the centre of the wheel of the G27, but in AC there's a good solution for this: turn up minimum force to max (30). Even at 30, the wheel still feels a little unresponsive around the centre, so I keep this as high as possible - really helps give the wheel a more linear feel.

    I went in depth into the other settings too. So in the logitech profiler, the standard advice for years now (e.g. for Race07 etc) is:
    Overall force 100 (some say increase this to eliminate wheel's deadzone, BUT this will result in "clipping" or "spikes" in ffb (audio engineers will see a parallel here in boosting volume past 0 db)
    Spring fx: 0
    Damp fx: 0
    Centre spring enabled but at 0
    Allow game to change settings.

    My conclusions: Leave overall force at 100. Don't want "clipping", and AC's in-game minimum force setting much better for minimizing floppy centre in wheel.
    Spring fx: 100 - if anyone can give a good reason to put this at 0, please let me know! It certainly doesn't mess with the real physics ffb, and as far as I can tell just allows the game to use spring fx for collisions etc.
    Damp fx : around 30 - in this game, this just adds some resistance to wheel when car stationary. You don't need much, I like 20. Again, no reason I can see to put this down to 0.
    Definitely leave centre-spring at 0 though (and if you do this I'm not sure it makes any difference whether the "allow centre spring" box is checked or not)

    Other in game settings: - don't seem to need any filter. All "canned" fx (road feel/slip fx curbs etc) all seem good around 25, though here I do think this really is a matter of taste - and as is pointed out elsewhere these are kind of "amplifiers", as these forces are already represented by the main ffb even if these sliders are at 0 - increasing past 0 basically gives extra shakes and rumbles when you go over a curb etc. Definitely helps feel more realistic with some of these extra fx dialled up a bit (a curb WILL shake the car!) but you don't need much.

    So in brief:

    Logitech profiler:
    Main: 100
    Spring fx: 100
    Damp fx: 30-ish
    Centre-spring strength: 0
    Allow game to adjust: yes

    In game:
    Gain: around 35
    Minimum force: 30
    Curbs/roadfeel etc: around 25

    Let me know if this helps anyone who's been struggling with an overly stiff wheel!

    Of course, if you prefer an overly stiff wheel (presumably because you also want stronger road feedback) then that's fine - but bear in mind that you'll have far more trouble controlling the car if the wheel is overly stiff to turn, so you're really not adding realism.

    Fact is, the ffb is far from perfect, and the floppy centre of the G27 is a real problem - but using this low "gain" setting, coupled with the high "minimum force setting", is the closest I've got the in game MX5 to feeling like driving an actual MX5. I'm also familiar with the Fiat 500, which also feels about right at these settings, so I'm presuming it'll translate to the other cars too.

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  3. kraM1t

    kraM1t Racer

    No offense but this advise is terrible. You won't make a FFB wheel feel anything like real life because it's trying to convey what the car is actually doing, and you usually feel that with your inner ear/gyro/gforce. The real car will have power steering because you don't need so much information through the wheel as you have all the other info I said above.

    The FFB in the wheel is used to give you suspension/slip/grip info.. turning the FFB down really low removes this and makes it more working via visuals than feel.

    Also having the minimum force that high creates a huge knocking feel every time you return back to centre.

    IMO, set Gain to 100% for wheel and ingame.. minimum force and filter to 0. Adjust FFB per car with - + on numpad until it gets a weight you like or until it's not clipping. Usually anywhere from 60-100%, any lower and you lose all feel for slip/grip/suspension/weight shift
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2017
    LATE4APEX likes this.

    LATE4APEX Alien

    Completely agree on all points, but I would add using gamma, in ff_post_process.ini.

    Started at .75, I'm "up to" .65 now, and really personally like the increased none fake info one gets when cornering forces are lower..
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2017
  5. I had no idea you could change ffb level while on track! That would have saved me many trips back into the options menus... If only there was a manual to tell you such things.....

    Anyway, I tried what you suggest, set "gain" in ffb options menu up to 100, and adjusted while driving with +/-

    Thing is, I ended up at around 35% again, so I'm not sure if it's any different than setting the options menu setting at 35 while having the in-race adjustment left at 100 like I did before.

    I agree, having it this low reduces the road feedback from the physics engine, and I get how useful this feedback is, but I find that the ffb being low is not half as un-natural as having the wheel being incredibly stiff to turn! In a real, car it's very easy to turn the wheel - as I said, I compared to a real MX5.

    But again, if this is what people prefer, then fine - it's a game after all! But there really is nothing realistic about a wheel that requires brute force to turn.

    Ideally, you'd be able to turn up all the ffb information pertaining to road grip, weight transfer etc, while independently adjusting the simulated centreing force (which is presumably what is making the wheel so stiff) - but currently there seems no way to do this - if you increase ffb level, wheel gets harder to turn. This, and the G27 centre-deadzone are I think the main issues preventing the ffb being more realistic - currently it's all about finding the best compromise between wheel stiffness and low ffb levels.
  6. Gevatter

    Gevatter Alien

    Min Force is usually only used to somewhat eliminate the dead zone some wheels have when they are straight. It amplifies all forces that yould be below the set min force value up to that, yo with your settings you never have any forces below 30% FFB strength.

    Other thatn that,there relly isn't much "realistic" about that whole Simracing FFB thing anyways, as everything the car does needs to be communicated to the user through the visuals and the wheel, as @kraM1t already said. Therefore there is a lot more going on as is in a wheel in the real car. Stefano himself once said that once you are in a motion sim rig, after a few minutes you completely ignore/forget the FFB through the wheel as you naturally concentrate o what the motion rig is telling you about the cars movements.

    The important thing is that you find settings and values that make you feel comfortable and let you control your virtual car to the best of your ability. I personally used a G25 for may years, and in AC I always had it turned up as high as possible ithut clipping, and in high downforce cars I still lost all feeling in slow turns due to how light the wheel would get. If you on the other hand better like the settings you explained above, and they feel better to you, how could anybody disagree with your preference? All the best to you and happy racing :)
  7. EDIT: I am finding different cars seem to need different values - 35% felt way too loose on the BMW M3 - around 50 worked here. And yes, having tried a few laps with ffb up around 100, it is nice to have the higher ffb, but still say the hard-to-turn wheel at these levels is not worth it. Controlling slides where you need to quickly give opposite lock is the biggest problem I think when the wheel gets this hard to turn.
  8. kraM1t

    kraM1t Racer

    Try 60-70 depending on the car... good compromise
  9. Just been trying all sorts of values (including 60-70) - the drift track is good for this! Still feel like above 40 on most cars is too much, just in terms of how hard the wheel starts to get to turn at higher values. It definitely is nicer ffb at the levels you suggest though, no argument there, but after a few laps, and failing to catch a few slides to due to how stiff the wheel is, I keep going back to lower values.
  10. AC Support

    AC Support Official Support Staff Member KS Dev Team

    Thread title changed in a better one. :)

  11. Not really. There are already lots of posts of suggested settings. This is a post saying these other posts are all crazy due to how hard it becomes to turn the steering wheel at the high levels of ffb they suggest, and how unrealistic this is compared to driving a real car. Maybe you want to also go thru all the other G27 posts and change their descriptions from "feels real settings" or "most realistic settings" etc to "my personal settings"?

    Original title, for the record, was: Suggested settings for G27 are all crazy... here's what I recommend.

    Obviously this is my personal opinion, whose else would it be?? Yes it's slightly playful/provocative, but I wanted responses, and contrary opinions for that matter.

    But if you really think someone's going to be offended by my claiming that the generally accepted settings for this wheel are "crazy", then maybe "Most recommended G27 settings make wheel far too hard to turn" or similar would be a more suitable revision?
  12. Sorry guys, I really appreciate your comments but this is under Console Version of AC, so most of your configurations are not gonna work for me, playing AC on PS4, because no config done in PC is gonna update the behaviour of the wheel in PS4. I'm new to AC, and the very first thing I noticed trying to drive an Huracan GT3 is that it was waaaay to hard to turn the wheel. So I turned everything down and started to increase in small amounts of %. Now it responses, the virtual wheel turns exactly as I turn my G29, but now I have a huge deadzone in the middle. This causes that, for example in career mode N2, driving the BMW, when braking in a long straight, it starts to lose the balance until I completely lose the car. It didn't happen with the Abarth (obviously didn't reach that high speeds). I come from Gran Turismo series, and I know that AC is a real simulator, but I think I'm not bad at driving (not good neither) and this is driving me crazy. Any help about setting the G29 on PS4 to avoid this things? Thank you so much!!

    P.D: I'm not using any assists, stability to 0%, no TC, ABS to default, real damages, and so
  13. Thread title much better now ;) your only one best suggested etc... should be on your sig :D after a few years playing AC as one of my favourite sim, realized that: usually suggested settings are quite good... but in details:
    1) min force - when numbers exceed 10 makes some strange forces especially when fast countersteering, the same with LUT (maybe we need also lower forces when wheel is not centered? and deadzone of G27 center is better than noise in other positions)
    2) damper (fe - 20) make some good damping when your speed is below 3km/h ;)
    3) gamma - is worth to check personally, but suggest higher values than 0,8
    4) seems that logitech profiler has bug which allow others game to change it's settings when allowed - always good to reconnect wheel before AC (or restart PC)
  14. xasten

    xasten Rookie

    in documents cfg files you have to edit few parameters in crazy1.ini (set 0|0.02, 1|9), controls.ini (ff_gain=0.01, understeer=0, other as standart 0 or 1), ff_post_process(TYPE=LUT ,ENABLED=1) . in the lgch profiler set overall to 115-120
  15. IMHO not good - many times proved that more than 100 makes weird feeling and noises
  16. xasten

    xasten Rookie

    it is the right way whith my combination of gain backfeeds
  17. xasten

    xasten Rookie

    Set 1 ---->>> little more easy to set

    in crazy1.ini set (0|0.02, 1|9)
    controls.ini (ff_gain=0.01, understeer=0)
    ff_post_process.ini (TYPE=LUT, ENABLED=1)
    in lgs profiler set overall to 115-120
    Set 2 ---->>>a bit more sensitive and pleasure steer, also more comfortable to drift and save, less understandable but truly maximum of effective grip zone, little harder to set to each car

    in crazy1.ini set
    0.002|0.07 ;value 0.1 makes road more informative, but drift harder, also steal surpises at flyings, jumps and rebounds

    controls.ini (ff_gain=0.01, understeer=0)
    ff_post_process.ini (TYPE=LUT, ENABLED=1)
    in lgs profiler set overall to 107
    in game APP Force Feedback Controller set value x1-x5 to each car (~100~500)

    It was need to feature only one ever unknown lined sients that kick out all ever mad spender horrible make

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