1. Do you need support for Assetto Corsa Competizione? Please use the proper forum below and ALWAYS zip and attach the WHOLE "Logs" folder in your c:\users\*youruser*\AppData\Local\AC2\Saved. The "AppData" folder is hidden by default, check "Hidden items" in your Windows view properties. If you report a crash, ALWAYS zip and attach the WHOLE "Crashes" folder in the same directory. Do not post "I have the same issue" in an existing thread with a game crash, always open your own thread. Do not PM developers and staff members for personal troubleshooting and support.
  2. As part of our continuous maintenance and improvements to Assetto Corsa Competizione we will be releasing small updates on a regular basis during the esports season which might not go through the usual announcement process detailing the changes until a later version update where these changes will be listed retrospectively.
  3. If ACC doesn't start with an error or the executable is missing, please add your entire Steam directory to the exceptions in your antivirus software, run a Steam integrity check or reinstall the game altogether. Make sure you add the User/Documents/Assetto Corsa Competizione folder to your antivirus/Defender exceptions and exclude it from any file sharing app (GDrive, OneDrive or Dropbox)! The Corsair iCue software is also known to conflict with Input Device initialization, if the game does not start up and you have such devices, please try disabling the iCue software and try again. [file:unknown] [line: 95] secure crt: invalid error is a sign of antivirus interference, while [Pak chunk signing mismatch on chunk] indicates a corrupted installation that requires game file verification.
  4. When reporting an issue with saved games, please always zip and attach your entire User/Documents/Assetto Corsa Competizione/Savegame folder, along with the logs and the crash folder (when reporting related to a crash).

Noob questions

Discussion in 'Chit Chat Room' started by St3fan, Aug 29, 2014.

  1. St3fan

    St3fan Alien

    Hi all I'm new to racing, and just bought a G27 wheel for this game. I've only played some NFS and GT4 (on a PS2 emulator) using keyboard or a XBOX controller. I have some questions and hope experienced racers could give me some tips.

    1. What does the color of the optimum racing line mean? Red green yellow? Is it the same for all cars? Sometimes I feel the red line before a corner is much much longer than I think I should have.

    2. Should a beginner turn on or off the driving assists? Currently I turn off everything except the optimum racing line with the hope that I can learn to adapt to the worst conditions at the beginning. Do you think it will be an efficient way of practicing? I'm spinning out like crazy now btw, I can even spin out when accelerating in a straight line.

    3. I feel the clutch is simulated poorly in this game. Is it just this game or do all games do the same thing? I feel I could never stall the engine, and for most of the times I can even shift smoothly without using the clutch paddle.

    4. Do you need to rev-match and heel-and-toe in this game? In real life I know that I have to do so because of the jolt. In this game when I downshift, I can see there is a surge of RPM, but does this affect how your car behaves?

    Thank you.
     

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  3. Blame

    Blame Alien

    The color on the racing line is pretty much like this:
    Green - on power/using throttle
    Yellow - lift or use throttle very slowly
    Red - Brake
    But I myself dislike the racing line thing, because the colours seem to fit for the AI.
    If you're racing in singleplayer just to practice, then have the aids off, if that's what you want first.
    There's no option to turn off/on the engine so stalling is not implemented yet, I guess.
    Heel and toe thing is just so the rear brakes slow the car down faster.
     
  4. Matty28

    Matty28 Simracer

    1. You're right, it is. Turn it off as it's pretty useless. Once you get used to it without it you won't need/want it anyway.

    2. If you literally can't drive without assists then keep the assist on until you're good with steering at least, then turn them down/off gradually and you'll be able to handle slides or avoid them better.

    3. Personally I find if I don't press the clutch hard enough or at the wrong time it doesn't go into gear quite often. Honestly this feels like the only game I can fail to change gear properly.

    4. You don't need to but it's much better if you can. Most of the time you can get away driving normally without doing it but it can make the rear of the car unstable or even cause you to spin out depending on the car or if you're going into a corner or mid-corner. As Blame said it will also help you to stop faster. I can't do it myself so I usually just risk it and deal with the instability until the last downshift coming into a corner when I'm off the brakes, so I can easily blip the throttle with my right foot before getting back onto the power.
     
  5. A.r.e.s.

    A.r.e.s. Hardcore Simmer

    @
    3. You can go into the controller settings and tweak the clutch pedal. If you rest your foot on the clutch at all while driving you may notice that the revs bounce a little. Clutch sensitivity is set to 100% by default so barely touching it can engage it. I have mine set to range: 67%, but honestly I just watched the axis meter a few times while pumping the pedal, and moved the slider to a spot where I think a clutch should let out.
     
  6. Bailey

    Bailey Alien

    1. Both the color and the location of the racing line is still incomplete for this game. I would suggest turning it off, as well for the other responses above.

    4. No, you don't need to. Yes it can affect the behavior of the car. I race with left foot braking so I don't heel toe, but I still rev-match. If I must rev-match I actually heel-toe with my left foot. I toe the brake and heel the clutch and blip with my right foot.

    ~Bailey
     
  7. some1pl

    some1pl Alien

    3. There are no engine stalls currently modelled, the engine is on all the time. Same with the gearbox damage, you can engage gear in real life too without the clutch if the revs are right.

    4. Hell and toe - not mandatory, rev match - advised, depending somewhat on the car and technique. For example try to downshift during the turn in Exige R without revmatching and you'll likely spin.

    Of course we talk about the cars with manual gearbox, not sequential/semiautomatic which does that for you.
     
    Cromagnon2 and A.r.e.s. like this.

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