Steering wheel setup, ratio, lock to lock as the real counter part

Unless you're understeering like crazy, the wheel should match real videos with 0.0 speed sensitivity. I don't understand how it can be doing what you say - the higher it's set, the farther you have to turn the wheel to steer the same amount. The setting changes the car's steering ratio according to speed - higher speeds = higher ratios, aka your 3 turns lock to lock does less and less.

 

Which issues is it that you are talking about?

 

Like I said... scuse my cynicism.

Not here to start a discussion/argument about the subject, just adding my two pennorth to a subject that crops up pretty regular as more people get into AC, yet never seems to be tackled by the Devs.

AC has taught me more about FFB than any other "sim" title I've raced. It is a gorgeous product with one or two faults (from my perspective). The areas where I do have issues are not on the devs priority list to sort out, I realised that a long time ago. I'll keep poking my nose in in the hope that the devs read some comments occasionally and maybe get round to sorting out my problems at some point.

Anon

 

Unless you are a Fanatec+Fanaleds user, you can set it once and it works for every car. It does not conflict with cars that have lower steering wheel rotation limits.

 

As far as I can remember, I never get anywhere near full lock with my G27 set to 900 degrees.

 

I'm not.

Which it doesn't, only when I change the Speed Sensitivity, I can match the videos. This can only mean one thing. I must be doing something wrong when calibrating/setting up my T300RS or make it work in AC. Yesterday, I clicked on the presest T500RS 900° settings in the menu. Started a race and there was no response from (my) T300RS what so ever. I have the same problem in pCars. I need to change the Speed Sensitivity in pCars as well. If I don't, I barely have to move the wheel to initiate a turn.
I barely have to turn the wheel when I'm driving on Spa (in all turns, even the sharp ones). If I don't change the Speed Sensitivity, I have to turn a max of 10° for sharp turns and even less in other high speed turns. It feels like I'm driving with a 90° steering wheel instead of a 1080° wheel. And yes, I have set the T300RS to 1080° in the T300RS controlpanel.

I hope you all see my problem now. I have to change the Speed Sensitivity or AC is unplayable.

 

I really dont have that feeling at all. :/ You have maybe answered this before but did you do the setup wizard in controller settings?

 

Aha, I was thinking about how much steering input I needed at Spa and I think it matches the RL video you posted. If you say you need a maximum of 10° that’s odd, of course.

However, with speed sensitivity you only treat the symptoms (with bad side effects) but not the root cause. With a wheel like the T300 RS you so don’t want to use speed sensitivity. The problem lies somewhere else so please stop going on about speed sensitivity. Put it to 0, check the response during the AC calibration process...check how the bars move as you turn the wheel in the controls menu. Does the wheel respond normally in the TM control panel?

 

Do you have the thrustmaster software open before playing the game? Because unless I have the Logitech Profiler open (G27), the ffb and rotation is all screwed. So for the wheel to use the right settings, you need the wheel software open, in case of logitech and thrustmaster wheels, Idk about other wheel brands.

You do not need to set speed sensitivity, this should be at 0. Gamma should be at 1, filter should be at 1. The only thing that needs changing is the Gain (Force) setting. If you feel the car is too heavy on steering, unrealistically heavy, then turn down the force % in Car Setup. You can go as low as 50% in car setup-generic for some cars, out of 100% gain from main menu.

And if your wheel has 1080º, then you should set that in your thrustmaster software, and 1080º in the game controls page, under steering axis.

 

C'mon Mog, I did say that earlier.... Are you saying you've never used full lock to get back on track after being punted off (yet gain)

Now it seems the "truth" is coming to light. @kikie I run a G27 and I MUST have the Logitech profiler running before I run AC (pretty much what Quffy is saying), if not the wheel does not use it's full rotation. As I disconnect my wheel when not racing I go through a fairly laborious procedure before starting AC.

I connect the wheel and let it go through it's self calibration and then open up devices and printers and open properties and run the wheel through a 180 degree check. I then connect the pedals and go through the Fanatec pedal calibration. I then fire up the Logitech profiler and make sure it's running the AC profile. I then start AC and run through the controls before heading off to race. I presume you need to do pretty much the same with the Thrustmaster software for your wheel.

I ran through the calibration wizard in AC a few times but it would come up with a different value for my wheel's rotation every time I tried so I just tell it that the wheel is 900 degrees.... no doubt someone will be along to tell me I'm doing it all wrong but it works for me, the wheel matches the on screen wheel (Except for those with more than 900 degrees of rotation).

Do what Quffy is telling you to do and let us know how you get on.... gl

 

I guess I probably do in that situation, Johnny. However, I never notice it because the red mist is generally making my thought processes somewhat erratic!

 

For those cars with more than 900º, while your wheel is only 900, go to video options-view tab, and put virtual degrees 450, which gives a total of 900 animation.

 

Before I start, thanks to all for helping out!

I have tried every option I can think of.
1) The calibration wizzard



2)Assigning the axes directly



3) Using the preset T500RS 900° configuration and change the axis degrees to 1080°

Yes, the wheel responds normally in the controlpanel.
The bar in AC under de AXIS1 (steering) responds normally, also during the calibrations process.

I always close the controlpanel. Didn't now I had to leave it open.


I'll try it with the controlpanel open.

 

I don't know how I did it but I have been driving with the BMW M3 E3 on Spa for 24 min. with Speed Sensitivity set at 0 and I'm pleased with the "result". I did re-calibrate everything.

 

Is because that setting was never meant to be used with our ffb wheels So something was wrong in the way you setup your wheel, if the speed sensitivity above 0 was giving you good results.

 

Glad you got sorted... been an entertaining thread

Njoy

 

I know, I am totally mystified by this thread (but intrigued all the same)

I rarely turn my wheel more than 90-110 degrees

 

I don't know if it is part of the solution or not but I don't close the controlpanel anymore. Also, I have set Speed Sensitivity in pCars to zero and am also content with the "result" in pCars. Didn't re-calibrate in pCars though.

Only one thing I need to do is to go driving on the real Spa circuit during an open trackday.

Last night I sometimes I turned my wheel more than 135° but this is when I was pushing, understeering the car. I'm not going to change the setup of the car though, not yet anyway.
I learned a lot FFB wise in this thread. It got me the FFB result I always wanted in a game. Espessially in AC. Not in pCars so far.

Oh before I forget. Last night I turned on the virtual steering wheel ingame. Got the Fiat 500 Abarth and checked the lock to lock ingame. Checked the lock to lock in my Fiat 500 Twinair (yes I have a Fiat 500 which I bought for my father since he became disabled due to a medical blunder) and it is definitely not the same. The lock to lock ingame was around 810° (if I did it correctly) and in my Fiat 500 it is 1080° or 1090°.

 

The game has Abarth 500 EsseEsse. And according to this thread, it has 828º. Is hard to find this info online but in this website about the 2015 fiat abarth 500, the lock to lock is 2.3 turns (the abarth 500 essesse from the game is older than year 2015). But 2.3 turns lock to lock isn't 1080º, that would be 3 complete turns.

 

I found the information and the standard 500 is a full 3 turns, lock to lock and the Abarth is according to this information 2.3 turns lock to lock. This explains the difference in feeling I haven when driving the 500 IRL and the Abarth in AC. I was almost certain that the standard 500 and the Abarth had the same lock to lock specs. Seems that I was mistaken.

Does this mean that I have to change the degrees in the TM controlpanel and in AC to 828°?