What Wheel Would You Recommend ?

I really recommend to see that guide about wheels for PS4.

In my personal opinion, i would recommend the T150 PRO racing wheel that comes with the T3PA pedal set in the box for 200€ great wheel and good ffb.
You can change your degrees on the fly, up to 1080.

And after being trying a G29 of a friend i would say that the FFB given from the T150 is more smooth and with a bit more details

The materials of Logitech are more premium

 

For Logitech on the PS3 I had a DF:GT and then a G27 which seemed pretty bulletproof. I've only tried a friends G29 on a PS4 for about an hour, so I can't really comment on it. For the Ps4, I started with a T80, but don't waste your time, money, or sanity on it. Without FFB, you have to SEE that the car is sliding (under/oversteering) and try to catch it rather than with FFB where you can feel it sliding and react faster.

Then I bought a T150, which wasn't too bad for the price (B&H photo/video have flash sales all the time). The stock two-pedal set up was a weak point, but doing the mod where you place a piece of rubber behind the brake pedal helped, but I ended up getting the T3PA pedals for it. All said, it was pretty good, but now I was approaching the cost of a T300. The standard T300 still has the crappy two pedal set up though, so plan on $75 - $99 to upgrade to the T3PA's or $125-$150 for the T3PA Pros (cost fluctuates by vendor and/or sale price).

Last December I picked up the T300 Ferrari Alcantara w/T3PA pedals (only $300 from B&H during their holiday sales) and then put on some metal pedal covers made for a real car. While the T150 was decent, the T300 F/A was immensly better. Better FFB, accuracy/precision on where you place the car on the track, low fan noise, and the Alcantara wheel feels great - plus I picked up the F1 wheel too, but I only paid $99 so I'm not sure I would have been as happy with it if I had paid $150+. If you can save up enough for the T300 F/A, I'd say go for it. The T80 and T150 wheels I bought, plus the T3PA pedals, cost about as much as the T300 F/A and I wish I had just waited and gone right to the better wheel. I gave my neighbor kid the T80 and I have the T150 on my PS3 and as a back up in case I have an issue with the T300. And as far as the button press/disconnect issue with the T300 goes, an online friend walked me through how to virtually eliminate the glitch by reassigning the screenshot button. Can't remember the exact steps, but I could find out if you are interested. Since doing that, I haven't disco'd or jumped to the screenshot screen (in about 6 months now).

 

I'm running G27 thru GIMX (raspberry pi doing job) and it's just solid train to go.
FFB on stock in AC is unacceptable for it, but after tweaking proper FFB in it's just great, no deadzone at all.
I'm running FFB 92% and road 48%, others 0%/off. With these settings you are able to feel even flat spots of tires and other tire formation abnormalities.
G series are kinda hard to setup well working in AC, i.e. SAT is working properly only in small ffb setting window, FFB 89-92% with that 48% road is probably close shot to that widow, going over it under you'll get other FFB effects going over SAT and driving become lot harder.

 

I know this post is old but for those using this for the info, buy once cry once.

 

what settings were you running the thrustmaster at to get it feeling like your real m3? Thanks

 

A street legal M3 has nothing to see with an M3 Race car...so obviously feelings are and will be completely different from one car to the other.
And FFB of a sim is still an other thing more.

If you want to know more about the FFB in acc and how to set it up, give a look to this video, made by Kunos simulazione dev @Aristotelis

 

O

Ok thanks