Tire Pressure and camber adjustments

The topic of this thread has changed so rapidly

@Bob Peirce Have you checked ACTI so that you can review your session (tire temp, tire presure, etc) after you finish driving so you don't have to keep your eyes on speedometer, the road, and the tire app all at the same time?
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/acti-assetto-corsa-telemetry-interface.3948/

 

I found the Rseat GTR Simulator gta model on Amazon's site, so that has been my only source. I see from Rseat's web page that they have many seats but this one isn't mentioned. Consequently, I was/am confused. I still don't know if the pedals will fit this particular model since I can't find detailed information on it.

I checked them out and they are way too expensive for what I am trying to do. The reviews look great. I think if I were more into racing that would be the way to go.

 

The Amazon seat isn't an Rseat. No wonder I'm confused. Who sells these?

 

Right. I wasn't on their site. I wasn't even looking at the right seat!! I am an idiot.

 

@Bob Peirce Have you checked ACTI so that you can review your session (tire temp, tire presure, etc) after you finish driving so you don't have to keep your eyes on speedometer, the road, and the tire app all at the same time?
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/acti-assetto-corsa-telemetry-interface.3948/[/QUOTE]

No, bu I will.

 

I really dont know how knowing the actual speed is valuable when on track in a real car or in a sim. How do you know what speed you want to be going? Are you looking at speedo for reference for braking, apex or exits? As that would be kind of pointless and a backwards way of going about it.

You shpuld just drive find a brake marker then aim for the apex, then try to use all available road on exit. Always going as fast as possible and simply adjust reference points as needed.

If you miss the apex then brake earlier next time, if you hit the apex but have lots of road left on exit brake a bit later to carry more speed next time. The actual speed has no real valuable data, yet for some reason this and a "sense of speed" is something many seem to be overly concerned with.

Even the sense of speed in a real car is a bit of an illusion. Drive at 200kmh on a big open gp style track feels much slower then 100kmh on a tight road but speed is not very important data in any case unless you have a speed limit. There is no speed limit on track so you accelerate as fast as possible at all times until it is time to brake for a corner.

The rpm is way more critical then speedo to understand shift points and also your better off keeping an eye on your delta to see where time can be gained or lost per corner.

There is no point staring at your speedo for max speed at the end of the straight as thats when you should be focusing on brake point, turn in, apex and finally exit.

If you want top speed check telemetry later or even a replay rather then looking at it at times when you should be focusing on other things that are way more important.

 

The problem is the 718 is a little faster than the 2012 Cayman I own. Consequently, if I use the references I have developed over the years I find I am usually going too fast. A glance at the speedo confirms and helps.

Bear in mind I have only been using AC for about two weeks, perhaps for 30 minutes every other day, although I am not exactly sure of that. Consequently I have very little feel for it as yet. I've found just in the last day or so, since I twiddled brake gamma, that I am beginning to develop a better feel/rhythm for what is happening and can start to ignore the speedo in many places. It is usually just a matter of moving my brake points up a bit and getting a feel for how the brakes work.

I track I don't know would be a different matter but I am taking baby steps here.

 

I have to agree. I've discovered increasing the brake gamma makes them catch higher but they still have that long throw. I don't really feel like I'm actually applying the brakes. There is no feedback unless you get into ABS.

I plan to get a set of load cell based brakes. From what I've read they are much more realistic.

 

It... I... but... what?! That's the exact opposite to what the gamma adjustment does... isn't it? I'm confused now...

I haven't used gamma for a while (edit: just noticed my sig, apparently I am still using a small bit of gamma ^_^ ), and these numbers have been pulled out of my ***, but this is how the concept works AFAIK: At 1.0 gamma, when your pedal travel is at 50%, you're applying 50% brake. At say 2 gamma, at 50% pedal travel you're only applying lets say 33% brake. It consequently makes the end of the travel ramp up faster, so that at 100% travel you're at 100% brake, regardless of gamma.
You can see this by looking at the displayed curve in the gamma setting.

I drove with (iirc) 2.0-2.2 gamma with my stock T300 pedals so that I could more easily apply a small amount of brakes (for trailbraking), but gamma of 4 sounds undrivable to me for heavy braking, unless you have sub-millimeter accuracy with your foot, because all the braking will be at a relatively small range near the end of the pedal travel (see image above), which to me seems like the symptom you're describing... nothing-nothing-ABS/lockup.

 

This is correct. I used linear brake pedal (1.0 gamma) even with logitech G27 pedals because that's the optimal way to build muscle memory. It may not feel as "easy" first, but it's simply the best compromise between treshold braking and trailbraking in a long run..

 

That may be correct. I don't know yet. All I noticed was 4 seemed to work better than 2.4. I haven't tried 1 yet which may be even better. As I said before, we really need a manual. I have almost no idea what different settings are supposed to do. All I know is my actual brakes catch very near the top and need very little travel. 4 seemed to do that better than 2.4 but 1 may do it even better. 4 may actually be masking something of which I am unaware.

 

OK. Good to know. I will try 1 next time to see what it does. My experience was 2.4 wasn't right and my first guess was to try more. That did help but maybe not as much as trying less.

 

Will I be able to use the acti app with vr as the replays are messed up in vr ?

 

Okay. I'm confused. The default was 2.4 and I tried 4.0 because it seemed to catch higher. I just tried 1.0, and believe it or not, it is almost the same as 4.0 on the T300RS pedals! I saw only one difference. The car gets a little unstable braking at the end of a downhill straight. Is that really all I should see? If so, I'll either go back to 4.0 because that behaves more like my car actually behaves or I'll work on feathering the brakes a little better at 1.0. However, if I am missing something please let me know.

Trail-braking and braking at the end of a flat high-speed straight, even coming through a flat kink, don't seem to be any different, although I may be missing some subtlety. This may also be because I am still using the Thrusmaster pedals and they feel nothing like my car. I've ordered he Fanatec v3s; they may be more like I am used to.

 

Done.
I found an unusually powerful PC at a good price at Newegg; Christmas is coming!
Fanatic v3 pedals and Openwheeler seat are also on their way.
I thought it was a lot of money. Then I realized I spend that much for a couple of weekends at the track!

I love that I can drive a car I know on a track I know and it behaves pretty much the way it actually behaves. I also love that I can experiment with different styles of braking and cornering without actually damaging my car. I think I'll be a couple of seconds (maybe a few) better when the next season starts. That's what AC is all about for me.

 

Does anybody know how tire pressures in AC equate to tire pressures on actual cars? The reason I ask is, although I normally run around 36# hot on my car, I've moved from 33# to 32# hot in AC and my lap times came down a fraction. I'm wondering if 36# may be too high on the actual car.

 

ACTI app will log the data just fine - it logs data as you drive so has nothing to do with the replay camera being messed up in VR.

 

the issue youre dealing with is the fact that the tires in ac arent based on the tires on your car so the optimal pressures arent going to be the same.

after reading this thread it sounds like youre really just trying to improve your driving irl. ac will absolutely do that even if every little detail isnt 1:1 with your real car. its more about how a car (any similar car) acts at the limits of grip and learning how to control it in different situations. you will eventually be able to make good corrections while driving without thinking about it, they will just be natural reactions. i know my driving irl has gotten much better even though my exact car with my exact mods isnt in ac, nor are the roads i drive.

 

Bob, how is that not clear after all the previous discussions and even replies by Aris?!? The tyres in AC each have their own pressure sweet spot that you can see in the tyres app when the value turns to green. If your temps are also good, the AC tyre generates maximum grip. Just like IRL except for that you might be using a different tyre IRL with different values.

Good on you getting a decent PC. While you surely can have fun with AC on a weak machine, your goals certainly require something mid-range at least.