Racing Rigs & Direct Drive Wheels – Question of Stability?

Just wanted to add that in this video you can see some nice drifting moves of the AF Pro.
Seems similarly fast as the OSW.

(Yeah, the video is about the CS Handbrake, whatever … )

 

RSeat RS1, single tube mount. Stable as a rock with OSW.

 

Yeah, the RS1 seems to be really stable.

What I don't like though is that you only have mounting points on the right. Can't put a Button Box or similar on the left (which is where I would want them to be).

 

Ok, after reading up a lot about the AccuForce (and also the OSW) and doing some research about the shipping costs, I'm now strongly biased towards the OSW.
I liked the idea of not having to put up with an extra cord wheel <-> PC, but apparently the AF now comes with one of those as well.
shipping (to Europe/Germany) seems to be around 150€, together with tax etc. it's close to 2000€.

The OSW I can get from german/european resellers with the small or big mige for less than that even if including a Fanatec BMW GT2 wheel + conversion and the Q1R quick release.
(Should be around 1500-1600€)

Not sure yet which OSW kit to get, but I guess it's going to be the simucube kit.
Since the Mige is a really heavy beast (around 15kg, iirc), stability is more than ever a thing I need to pay attention to.

 

Hi,

Until very recently I had a self built OSW mounted on an Obutto Rev. It was just about the limit the rig would take when running medium to high forces and I'd had some additional welding on the wheel plate to help. Very useable but you definitely lost some force through the vibration absorbed by the rig. I also spliced in 8020 to the pedal area to mount HE Pedals as the standard pedal tray couldn't take the forces when braking hard.

Always happy to talk about my osw build, I learned quite alot about it when researching, and I made a comprehensive list of parts I bought etc. Cost me about £900 without a wheel rim.

 

Can you share the details on your 80/20 build up for HE Pedals, pictures if possible.
Thanks.

BTW, we have OSW dedicated thread in Controllers section if you have some OSW specific info to share or have questions. Let's keep it going.
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/osw-owners-thread.28560/

 

Hey Muska,

I'm also keen to hear about your HE Pedals as I'm looking to upgrade to them. Are you using Pros or Ultimates?

Cheers

 

I have switched from CSP v3 to HE Pro. Substantial difference, esp in braking consistency, much stronger load cell too, but you can calibrate to your liking in DView, I only use at around 80% of max reading.

 

Is there any place where you can find some information about the conversion project? It looks like you have to solder some cables into correct pins, RJ45 at the bottom, etc..

 

You can find a Al profile part list there. That part should be relatively inexpensive (if you order it there it's 400€.
Should be a good starting point.

On virtualracing.org there are multiple threads with 30+ pages on the osw and the topics around it.
(Most of them in German, though.)

The wiring is outlined on the linked page. BTW, going Bluetooth sounds interesting, not sure about lag and battery life, though.
So I'd choose a wired connection. If I'd had a spare Fanatec Wheel, I would try it though.
(Obviously, I don't )

 

Thanks, but this is not what the ask was about.

BTW, Leo has solderless version of conversion board now, essentially plug and play. Quite a few folks ruined their wheels trying soldering conversion themselves.
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=97&products_id=236


You'll be surprised how much OSW information is available on iRacing, if that's your thing.

 

From the info on his website I can't figure how "plug and play" this is. The instruction for the solder version include a bunch of things like "remove jot glue" here and so on... I am a bit scared of breaking stuff even with the unsoldered version (tried to find more info, but couldn't).

 

(This image was before I received the straight brackets for the pedal plate)

I don't want to derail the OP too much so I'll just say PM me if you want the dimensions of the profile that I used. This was absolutely rock solid once fitted and perfect for this sort of pedal application. I had CSP v2's prior to these and they really are worth every penny. Fantastic feel, amazing adjustability and HE really have first class support/customer service should you need it.

 

Thanks guys! Can't wait to get my HE Ultimates and build an OSW

 

$ for $ now at least the bodnar chip is solder less, while the Teensy will still require some soldering, So at least for the Experienced soldering guys can go for Teensy and less experienced guys can go with Bodnar.

I was legit shocked they were expecting guys to de solder that connector right from the board, Kinda brainless derision on their parts that obviously as you said forced some guys to go beyond their skills and F up their wheels.

Bodnar includes the "blue" cable that plugs in where the QR connection plugs in, this blue cable goes to the back side of the chip (cant see) and plugs in, the Chip then has the larger 4 green connector's for hooking up your USB wires....Easy peezy, but for a price.


@Nahkamarakatti My thread has all the details on the Micro B i did up and the RJ10 connector ect ect.

 

Go with OSW - its a total no brainer.
I can say with 100% confidence as someone who had an AF pro from 1st April 2015 - I was never happy - it wasn't 'loose' or 'free turning' enough during oversteer situation, because of the level of friction of that stepper motor, and it never had the range of the OSW. I got my small mige OSW Ollie kit in December 2015, sold the AF, and it was the greatest decision ever.

The AF buttons and paddles were cheap - the paddle shifters especially are Horrible - really bad.

At no point have i gone 'oh i miss the AF software' - not once. The simple Mmos software gives the options i need - the only thing i would like is something to control the level of counter-steer force, like you can on say Dirt Rally. Maybe there's a setting in AC where i can change it.

With the OSW, if you want to use 2 rims with paddles/shifters - the easiest option is Fanatec conversion. I bought 2 second hand

fanatec rims - the clubsport formula + GT2 + and for the quick release it seemed there was only 1 good choice - Holger Q1R. Expensive but works perfectly - and if you use slightly smaller screws you don't have to drill any new holes on the Fanatec rims.

As for Teensy LC vs Bodnar - its tough. Now I see that Bodnar does a plug and play version, that is amazing - and probably worth paying that for the hassle, unless you have a good soldering iron.
The teensy board is so cheap, £10, so the question is if you want to pay £40 for no soldering mess (or whatever it is in Euro's, i'm in UK!).

 

The most difficult part of the Conversion with Teensy for me was the USB cable - and to be honest, I might have to buy the Bodnar board + the cables he sells. 50x2 + 20x2 = £140. Ouch.
I have STRUGGLED to find a heavy duty Long USB cable that's coiled - just like the one Bodnar sells - unless anyone here can recommend??

Yes I know you can try coiling yourself - i even bought a heat gun - but unless the USB cable is more a 'flat' shape, it never properly coils and retains shape.
The bigger issue i have is the quality of USB cable looks nothing like what I see in that picture above.

To save the fuss, hassle afterwards, everything - i would honestly just buy the Bodnar boards plug and play + the 2 USB cables from him.
It's brilliant that you can now just screw in the 4 inner USB cables and no solder mess.

EDIT: Actually i've just seen the brilliant screenshots above of the way Nick Moxley has done it via RJ45 or whatever, i didn't know you could do it like that.

Nick - please could you provide links to the parts + cable? thanks

 

Look at product images page. Self explanatory, same stuff as you do for regular minus soldering.

 

Yeah, I read about that and also thought that that's the case, since most videos you can find on YT about both the OSW and the AF are with iRacing.

Honestly, I'm surprised how many people seem to use that.

Not my thing though. I don't like schedules for racing.
That's why I race mostly on public servers.

Sure, for iRacing, you can do the same, but paying a constant amount of money, I think I would put pressure on myself to drive as often as possible and not just when I feel like it.

 

Yeah, the stuff looks good. I'm thinking about purchasing the handbrake from there. Sure, it's a 100 bucks more than the Fanatec one, but if you include the stand-alone controller (which I think I'm going to need at some point) and the likely higher build quality, I don't worry too much about the investment there, since I expect it to last for at least 10 years.
(Heck, even my GT3 v2 now lasted 6 years. )