Heavy brake pedal affecting lap time ?

$20 + $13 shipping....$33 is exceptionally unreasonable when it costs them maybe $4 to produce. You can get the exact same product from a third party seller on ebay (tested for functionality and ready for use) for $20 shipped...Fanatec has no excuse to be selling (and shipping) them for that much.

 

I run Rather high brake force on mine and ive been through 2 i think in 4 years of use.

No i dont get the Fanatec versions, Ebay Baby. 8.99 Free Shipping. ***Yes you have to source your own Plug***

 

That shipping cost is insane, thing goes in an envelope

 

v3 has better load cell, btw.

 

buy a used Wii Balance Board - four of these inside rated 75kg each

 

As I read here that even a high priced wheel-/pedal set with a / the load cell can "break" -> Buy a used G25 and it'll last for the rest of your life.. . [+ maybe a separate, better to use H-shifter only - I still don't own].
But I don't want to destroy the fun you might have with your wheels and pedals, of course.

I replaced the G25 brake spring with a G25 clutch spring some years ago, the now more light break pedal makes it easier to judge in position (it is more "fluppy" / 'quicker' back and forth as well I would say). *
Break gamma is 1.00, I like everything linear and (= ) logical. (The pedal travel isn't really too or that long, it's more or less even quite short in fact, that a non-linear setting would really be necessary.. .)

*But this is all just a matter of taste and what you get used to, as someone already has said. I think none of this makes you really slower or faster on a hotlap.

 

Pressure is a much easier to apply consistently then travel distance, also much more natural as that's how the brake pedal works in a real car, once you are use to load cell there is no going back. You can modulate it easier as well. G25 pedals certainly wear out, mine did, both the throttle and brake were jumping all over the place (about 20% multiple times a second) made precision braking and consistent acceleration impossible. They certainly took a good beating for a long time though

 

But it's not really real at all (the games itself pedal wise, -all you have to manage is what you can see the pedal app - and that's fairly simple (linear) stuff you see there.. + ok, some brake characteristics of the car-) at least in a way. So I don't care.
It's all just outta fake adjustments and feel with those "mods".
I can modulate it better with the a bit lighter clutch spring's stiffness (and not with a heavier spring), at least for the G25, because of my above mentioned more "fluppy" and co. aspects. You get quicker and also more dymanically to the potentionemter points you "want" to reach in each second, someting like that.

There is noting that can wear out, as long as the potentimenters stay alive the Pedal set will stay the same for ever.. .
The G25 is not belt driven (it's a 'direct driven' one a turntable enthusiast would say), so 'even' the wheel set will stay in same condition as well for ever , as long as the motors work.

I did once clean all of the cylinders of my used G25 pedal set, put only some silicon spray around of each of the inner cylinders and it works and feels and sounds the same as from day 1 still.
The springs cannot wear out as well.. .

 

Potentiometers do wear out quite easily though.

 

Think I may be misunderstanding something here, manage what you can see in the pedal app? You don’t mean you look at the pedal app during races do you? I’m currently racing in a f2004 league and there’s no chance of looking anywhere but exactly where you are going, you are talking 300+ km/h down to hairpin turn speed in 2 seconds and 6 gear changes, there’s no looking at any apps in that time

G25/27 is a very good wheel it’s the only gear driven wheels I believe so very direct in the feedback, closer to DD wheels then the belt driven wheels, does lack strength though. I used mine for about 800hours of AC, the plastic casing inside that holds the big bearing that supports the steering shaft cracked in two sadly

 

I think “fluppy” has to be my new favourite word, love it!

Does the G25 not have a gearbox?

AIUI, a direct drive system has to have the wheel mounted directly on the motor’s spindle, without any belts or cogs to boost torque. That’s why DD motors are so expensive as they have to be very big and powerful to provide the needed torque at the low RPMs used by FFB.

 

Actual lol.

 

While it’s not the same as a DD wheel the end effect as far as precision goes is much closer then belt drive wheels. It is more responsive and detailed then belt driven wheels as the motor is direct connected to the shaft with gears, assuming no play and in good condition there isn’t any a G25/27 is far more details then the Fanatec/Thrustmaster stuff, it just lacks everywhere else

 

The motor is indirectly connected to the wheel, via gears. I know exactly what the result is because I owned one (before upgrading to T500 and now OSW), making any sort of favourable comparison to actual direct drive wheels is fairly ridiculous.

 

That’s like saying your wheel in a DD wheel is indirectly connected to the motor because there’s a hub, quick release, extension, whatever in between. There’s no play in a G25 (when in good condition) and no belt slip same as DD wheels. When I went from the G25 to the Fanatec CSL I did notice a kind of ruber ish feel that wasn’t there in the G25. Get use to it quickly though and the advantages outweigh this

 

They still work or do not work (and are 'broken'), and almost nothing inbetween.

@Serge M: No (not using them -pedals app- for my driving or looking at them), I just kinda meant what you see in the paddle app is all the game does know (and need) input-wise. Other pedals do not affect anything for the pure input [meaning: that simple bar standing/height of the pedals (app)].

 

All you need is just try load cell once to change your mind, there is really no coming back.
This is from one of the numerous whitepapers covering the subject.

Good load celled systems like HE are guaranteed for life.
Fanatec, well, we all know this company track record.

 

There is a (little) difference between G25 and G27 also, the first feels even more direct and clean as feedback.
Switched from the g27 to the csl elite, i had the same your feeling. I prefer the csl elite , certainly more reminiscent to a real steering wheel.

 

I prefer the CSL elite too, you do give up a little to gain a lot. DD is the best of everything though, that’s the next step