Noob question wondering if my computer is safe to play this

the game was enough to blow up my crap brand 650w powersupply a while ago so i got a seasonic 520w to replace it, it was still enough to make my computer reastart which was an early sign of the same thing happening eventually. back then i had a crap stock motherboard.

i've only replaced 2 things
i now have a msi x79 gd45-a plus and an i7. will i be ok on max settings, streaming and dual monitors now?

 

which i7 and what else do you have when it comes to your computer? 520watt powersupply would fit in a office computer that has nothing else to do besides paperwork.

A motherboard isn't enough info here.

 

the i7 is 4820k
also i have 6gb ram and gtx 780

 

Did you get a better power supply unit? I7-4820k and GTX780 would sit fine on 650w, but I would go with atleast 750w, it would also be a good idea to have atleast 8GB of ram if you're building a gaming PC.
When it comes to max settings and streaming, you won't be having a lot of fps, you'd probably be fine, but lag could be expected.

 

no i still have the 520w, also i got the graphics card wrong i have a 760. if i just play the game without dual monitors or streaming will i be ok on max settings?

 

Probably not so good on max settings, but you could be alright, might have to lower the settings a bit here and there.

 

From a quick google:

I7-4280k (with GTX670 installed and idle) 125W running Wprime, not sure about MB.
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...i7-4930k-i7-4820k-ivy-bridge-e-review-16.html

GTX760 full load card only 246W (last graph, and GTX670 is 15W idle top graph).
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/geforce-gtx-760-review-gk104,review-32717-22.html

So CPU 125W - 15W =110W
GTX760 246W

leaves 164W for accessories/headroom (by my rough calcs thats 0.68Amps for Euro or 1.4Amps USA, if my ohms law is remembered correctly).

Not sure how much headroom to leave, for sudden current draws as cpu/gpu change states. Blame may be able to answer that one, but it probably is too close once you add drives/fans/etc.

Matt

 

Sorry mate, but this is just wrong. You're the dream of all PSU producers screaming how many watts their product can deliver A typical office computer easily stays under 200 watt usage, even if it's a more powerful one (e.g. with many cores like i7), because the only real power consuming thing in a PC is a dedicated GPU and for normal office usage the integrated one is enough.

As long as the PSU is a good one, which means it delivers the power what it says, a 500W model is most time enough. Played with my old one (which I had for 5 or 7 years) the past 2 years with a GTX670 and i7 and only replaced it for my GTX 980 because it was too weak on the 12V rail. And the new one is also only a 650W model, more is only needed if you want to go for SLI or other freaking things ^^

What MatthewSean said is what is the key (but 250W for a 760 seems too high in my opinion), search for some power consumption tests in the webtake the peak values and summarize it. But there isn't much coming after GPU and CPU, few watts here for the motherboard, few watts for the HDD/SSD and few watts for some USB peripherals. So if it's just a standard gaming PC, the threadstarter rig would be peaking not more then 400W in my opinion, so a good 500W PSU is enough.

An alternative is to use one of the many calculators on the PSU/GPU producers websites, just google for "power supply calculator".

 

I have a bit weaker hardware but i run corsairs 500w atm with everything OC'ed and ive yet to have any issue. Also ran a 650w before on a much more powerful pc with no issues. People are quick to buy 1000w for no good reason.

Hefty hw+sli and brutal OC is a good reason to step up.

Sent from TapTalk.

 

Tl;Dr:
IF
Non-SLI
650W tops (and that is being really generous here)
but ware proper quality .

 

Im sure it was not the game wich blew your power suplly up. maybe a poor cooling circuit? 560W should be fine enough for your hardware.

 

@Jaye I got that figure from the graph in the Toms Hardware link, and it says that it's 100% load and just the GFX card (guess they used an adapter between MB/GFX card, to get 12v rail usage).

@alex72 I think I run the same PSU CX500 , with OC CPU and GTX650, and I have no issues.

@Snooky I find OEM PSU are not as robust as they claim, seen to many blown for no obvious reasons. As Radfahrer says, get a quality named unit and you'll be better off in the long run.

In theory the 520W PSU should be able to run MB/Ram/1 x Harddrive/CPU/GTX760 and have 164W of headroom. If you start adding multiple drives, capture cards, USB connected devices (that don't have a seperate PSU) that 164W excess will quickly disappear. The reason I say it may be close, is, I can not guess the future upgrades (SLI Gfx, etc), and what extras there are now that are not listed, so I may be being over cautious.

As for the use of higher wattage PSU:

There is no advantage to running a higher wattage PSU, as it will nearly always use more power to get the same wattage as a lower wattage PSU. I say nearly, because you may be lucky and hit a sweet spot in the efficiency curve, a PSU is more efficient the closer to 100% load you get.

More on PSU http://www.enthusiastpc.net/articles/00002/

 

Dont buy anything till the Game is realesed...

 

Fair comment, but then it will be, do I wait for the OEM refresh. So I can get the 10PHz CPU and the GTX999999 in septuple SLI, and a billion petabytes of ram.

TL/DR chicken or egg.
/s

Also he says replaced, so guess they are already purchased.

 

Actually, the more power you have in your PSU, the less reliabilty issues you will have, you'd be getting less stuttering and everything would go smoother. + Most corsair PSU's that are 80+ Gold certified last up to 130 years.

 

You're not going to get 60 fps with max settings using a 760; decently high settings, yes; max, no. Streaming with Shadowplay uses next to no resources so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

As I thought myself. I just had to return a Corsair built XFX PSU which didn't last 130 days, let alone years. 3 months then it died. I have replaced it now for a EVGA one.

 

then you used it in a wrong way, I doubt at that point any PSU in your hands would last 4 months
Though EVGA makes top quality GPU's, I'm not really leaning on to any other of their products.

 

If you want quality PSU Seasonic is still to this day the way to go, I ran dual GTX660ti's on a 650W Seasonic Gold PSU for 3 years before they got replaced by dual GTX770's running on an 850W Seasonic unit... Word to the wise, take what "pro advice" people give on the internet with a pinch of salt, since everyone on the internet tends to be a "hardware professional" as google exists, while never in their life being anywhere near the stuff they talk about. Don't cheap out on PSU though, get the ones that are atleast bronze certified so that you don't run into issues of them dropping their output at over 80% load. You by no means need something more than a 550W for a single GTX760, but you should not expect to play on max settings because I rarely maxed games and had to play on med-high on triples while i had two 660ti's which are pretty much on the same level as the 760.



^ That is all I have to say.

 

Are you sure about the 3 years claim for the GTX660TI, because if I GOOGLE the release date (Sorry couldn't help myself). 16/8/2012, it's 1/12/2014 now, so thats 2 years and 4 months give or take 15 days.

http://www.fudzilla.com/home/item/28125-nvidia-gtx-660-ti-gets-a-possible-launch-date

Oh and I have been building my own PC's since 3DFX VoodooII SLI (AMD K5 CPUs) days, and also for friends/family/companies.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/voodoo2-3d-chip-3dfx,60.html

2 things to note about that Link, the date 1998, and written by Tom himself.

And the bronze cert isn't about when the PSU is over 80% load (see the link at the bottom of my previous post #12), it means they waste 20% of the energy they consumed. So a 500w PSU will draw 600w at the wall socket, but 100w is waste heat and noise at full load.

The only thing we do agree on, is always buy a name brand PSU preferably of 80%+ cert, And take any advice with a pinch of salt.