Casting Call - JP Pack Film MP Sessions - Drivers, Drifters and Semi Drifters needed

try to not pass doors of car infront with your fender*"corner"*! and always left foot on brake! hope it helps! hope u understand! my eng. sucks most of time!

Edit: PM me if u need replays if they can help!

 

For all your drift requirements I'm going to have to nominate my main man @Hooniganz99

 

I see i have been summoned here by my friend LTD. What's the deal? I'm always down to help.

 

I basically dick at drifting on demand. I'll try my best, but expect a lot of takes. I'll be all right on the driving parts though.

Sent fra min SM-N910F via Tapatalk

 

Can't join the server, it claims I have unavailable content. I've downloaded and installed the mods in the list on Reddit...

Edit: Never mind, i'm an idiot.

 

I've had my fill of trying to create an account at Reddit now. I can't get past the Captcha, it just keeps freezing up and then 5 mins later asks me if I want to try again. The "Submit problem" button does nothing as does the button to select an audio challenge or the help button. You guys have fun... I won't be taking part.

Ciao

 

Sorry you had all that trouble man.

 

Nihon-jin desuka?

 

im happy with the Sileighty Nao (or pretty much anything really.) you got there first, thanks though.

 

Masaka... baka-gaijin desumono. Just some idiot who watched too much anime (and studied japanese for 2-3 years)

+some thought's from the test session: less grippy track would be great*, disable penalties, maybe increase grip on modena's grass. It's really easy - just increase the grip value on line 3 of surfaces.ini from 0.1 to 0.95 or something. (server has to do it too)

* i'd go hard on that, like 86% is still grip city in AE86 haha.

 

Hahahahah. Copy that. Oku-san wa nihon-jin desu. Nihon-go skoshi hanasemas. Honto skoshi.

Spent 5 years in Japan. I only just recently started watching anime. You want some real good stuff to watch?

AKIRA KUROSAWA / TOSHIRO MIFUNE

Absolutely. Tag @NightEye, your it! That grass really tripped me out. "It's like feckin ice!"

NightEye, we'll use Old track for Modena sessions.

 

I'm at the point where I can sometimes drift a corner and make it look good in the stock Supra. Connecting corners is still way beyond me even if I get lucky occasionally. Drifting the stock cars is pretty hard, it seems. I'll keep at it, though. I'll make it up in the other segments.

Sent fra min SM-N910F via Tapatalk

 

I was attempting to practice drifting today. I guess a few of the attempts came out okay...but a terrible side effect - once I got fed up and wanted to go back to hotlapping I found myself doing the Scandinavian Flick, sort of, around so many corners. I was getting so mad at myself...It's like my arms were possessed.

 

@Atle Dreier Stock supra does pretty well on Modena, i find it pretty easy to drift... try something like this:
Alignment tab, everything max left except for rear toe which goes max right - the idea for max rear toe-out is that the car starts transitions earlier givng more time to react calmly, also allows entering drifts up to high angle without throttle (just calmly trailbrake it in).
Tyres tab: Streets 32psi front (stock) 22psi rear - drop the rear more when you start doing longer drifting, the idea is to have as high pressure possible without ever allowing it to exceed 40psi!)

Also try drifting in steps, first countersteer then throttle, never together, think 250F! Floor it only when the car fully stabilities. No throttle during transitions if the boost is up (jab the pedal if you want to speed it up but don't let the boost buildup on you before car is settled with cangle you want) and never rush it to high angles, try making it flow just like with the Maseratis.

edit: ps: also start with tyre blankets and give the car a lap of mild sliding to heat up the rears more then attack.

 

I'm doing the exact opposite with the street cars. Rear toe all the way in. I don't need any help to start the drift. I need the rear to not "walk past the line". Almost all of them, once you go past a certain Yaw angle, there is not enough lock to prevent it from spinning. With Rear toe at standard or low values (near center), I find them very willing to snap right over the max Yaw angle and spin. This way, you really have to make use of handbrake or Scandinavian flick to start and plenty of throttle to maintain.

Then front toe all the way out as there isn't enough lock, this gives just a bit more authority at max lock.

Cambers I take up on both, standard camber or lower is too slippery. Front up a few clicks less so it has more grip than rear.

 

I'm about to go run the Supra and Supra Drift to find out what is easier. I will also adjust the setup. I will have a setup file for you soon enough.

Hahahah. That happens. Sorry

 

"I'm doing the exact opposite with the street cars. Rear toe all the way in." Yep thats exactly why i recommended trying toe-out as it goes against the intuition. Toe does not do that much to general balance but it heavily influences the how the driver uses the car. So it's not really a car setup but "driver setup" - a looser car will require more attention to it's yaw and in a way force the driver to control it more actively... Gripwise the difference is minuscule, especially on a car that can overpower both wheels when sliding - heck with a short test with supra it felt like toe-out even had a tiny bit more grip just before slipping away at full throttle*.

*-probably because it puts less strain on the outside and more on the inside wheel, which smooths out the slip-away moment (one wheel first then the other, while max toe-in will have both go away at the same time) - so not more grip but more controllable.

 

Inteerrresting. I have definitely tried neutral toe and toe out in the past (with E30, 180 etc) and had a terrible time with it. But I did not spend a whole lot of time trying to tune the car in general either.

I just spent an hour and half--that's a very long time for me, because I usually can't get that kind of time due to kids etc.--with the Supra D. at Modena. I completely changed it.

Streets
Fuel down a few liters

Front Toe max out
Rear Toe max in

R ARB moved from 1 to 0

F Camber + approximately 4-5 clicks
R Camber + approximately 5-6 clicks

R Bump moved from 0 to 8
R Rebound moved from 6 to 1

Diff power default at 52
Diff coast moved from 52 to 90

Video uploading.

I am confident with a few more tweaks I can get it a little better. The load transfer from rear to front is a bit too abrupt.

 

Check Reddit friend.

 

So this simmered in my head for a bit. I didn't change Rear toe to gain more grip, or because there wasn't enough grip on the rear. I brought rear camber up to gain more grip. Rear toe is all about the grip vector.

Max Toe Out= Assisting the momentum of the rear end. Grip vector is outboard of car center.

Neutral= Neither assisting or resisting. Grip vector is inline with chassis.

Max Toe In= Resisting the momentum of the rear end. Grip vector is towards car center.

So I like the car having the tendency to resist the rear end momentum when off throttle. Obviously when on max throttle, grip is greatly reduced, so the rear grip vector barely does anything.