CSW rim weight and FFB

Hi,

You guys that have the BMW rim for the CSW, have you any thoughts on the ffb suffering from the weight of the rim?

I have tried upgrading my G25 with an aftermarked wheel, because many says it's great, but the ffb is just destroyed by the extra weight. G25 rim is about 0,6kg/1,3lbs, the momo rim is about 1,4kg/3,1lbs. The size is great, 35mm, but the ffb is then too weak and can't be turned any higher without clipping. Needless to say, driving is much more fun and accurate with the stock G25 rim.

So, was thinking if I got the CSW, which sure is stronger, that maybe I would prefer the ffb with the formula rim way over the heavier BMW rim. It's just that I want to use a gt rim for the gt/road cars, but not if the ffb suffers too much.

Wonder why they didn't produce the GT rim as close to weight of the Formula rim as possible.

thanks!

 

F1 rim is lighter so you will feel bit stronger ffb than using BMW, presuming you use default force '100' for both. But CSW is built to handle the BMW rim, you can crank the force very high, it's ffb can rip your hands of the wheel, be it F1 rim or BMW's. Of course cranking it that high is not recomnended because higher load on motors, but you can surely add more force for the BMW rim to match the ffb with F1 rim without any worrying that it will suffer much.

 

Thanks for sharing, much appreciated, though have you tried the CSW and rims yourself? Just wondering what your info is based on, as you have the G25 in your sig.

So ffb is still strong without clipping when using the BMW rim?
Also, maybe you know if the CSW base is the same as the Forza CSR Elite, or know of the differences? I'm thinking ffb wise, accuracy etc.

 

I'd recommend monitoring your temps coming out of the CSW base. I simply check that from time to time by putting my hand up to the right side where the air exits the base to see if it feels warm. If it does, I reduce the force in-game or use a preset with lower force (can be changed on the fly). If your motors get hot enough that you can smell the electronics, that's likely doing damage. In most cases, if you stay below the point where clipping occurs, you should be okay. Some people suggest cranking the force beyond 100% in the CSW menu but, some who have done mods and repairs say that is not a good idea for motor longevity. There is also the Buhler motor mod that can increase the strength of the CSW but, it's not simply an easy swap.

If you can afford it, get both wheels for the CSW and you will have the best of both worlds and swapping wheels couldn't be easier.

Coming from using a G25 myself, I can say that the CSW has great FFB, more detail and is stronger than the Logitech wheels. It's also built with better materials making it feel like a real pro-level setup and not just a toy. The Logitech is great for the money though, and mine never missed a beat.

 

From my reading, the CSW and CSR-E share most of the same basic components with the CSW having some updated parts like the circuitry and cooling. Even within model lines, there are some minor variations with different versions. Some use different belts, include a second fan or more options on the main board. Generally, the CSW seems to be a little more capable and has more features like the QR system but, the overall design of the internals is basically the same.

 

Hi, I have put a real aftermarket rim on my G25. It is aluminum and hardly weighs more that the stock rim. The FFB is still weaker because the radius is larger (35cm) but you can crank up the strength in the profiler. Clipping occurs if you increase the gain in-game, but if you do it from the profiler you eliminate that issue. However with AC if you go over 100% you get a nasty vibration when the car is stationary. I hope they fix that.

 

As far as I heard from a motion sim rig developer, G27 is able to cover upto 330mm rim. But in my experience, 320mm wheel is best to be used and I don't feel any FFB weakening. And as most of you already know, loose center is covered with power setting 105~107.

 

Yes, I have CSW and both rims, thanks for pointing me to update my PC specs
There is no clipping if you add some force through the integrated wheel settings.
The clipping occurs if the in-game FFB settings (ffb gain in AC) are set to high, like Snoppy explained few posts back.

 

Alright, thanks for the info, it made me a little more confident in spending on the csw, maybe in near future or if/when the G25 breaks down.

 

I have a csr elite that has a 300mm sparco rim but I didnt think the torque was enough of an upgrade from a g25 that I owned so I put bigger motors in the wheel and use a bigger power supply that more than doubles the torque of the wheel and it no longer overheats, the csw has a FOR setting that the csr elite doesnt so that should give you the extra torque for the bmw rim but it will heat up more quickly.

Its a shame that the csr elite and csw are almost perfect only let down by the choice of cheap motors that overheat because they are used beyond their rating.

 

I have a CSR Elite and have been smelling some heating up after good session...what mods would you guys recommend me doing to the wheel? I would really love to have more tension on center and overall wheel tension throughout the range of lock, not necessarily more FFB or Vibration but more tension or elasticity feel in the wheel especially when rolling out of lock.

 

Here is a link to the mods I have done to mine http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threa...e-modders-thread-update-february-2014.274631/ it has completely transformed my wheel for the better and the guy ekretz can make you the brackets and pulleys.

 

Wow that's amazing! Thanks a bunch. On a scale of 1-10 what would say the upgraded or modded wheel feels like compared to stock?

 

If the modded wheel was a 10 then the stock would be 4 or 5 as it now never overheats and is nearly as strong as a bodnar wheel for less than 10% of the cost, but it all depends on if you like heavy ffb because I am used to driving cars without power steering in real life so I like heavy steering.