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Generic I stink in a wheel or happens to everybody?

Discussion in 'Console Lounge' started by Grijo, Oct 28, 2016.

  1. Exage304

    Exage304 Gamer

    Yes I had exactly the same experience. Went from being extremely good with the game pad on various systems to the G29 on PS4 and it was a real revelation.

    You have to learn how to apply the correct steering rate and angle for corner speeds. With the game pad both of them are basically taken care of for you. It will take practice, there is no sudden breakthrough. Take late model slower cars and progress and also start taking off assists (TC particularly). I spin out and have off track excursions quite a bit, it's the cost of trying to get quick lap times. Also tuning the car will make a huge difference in how the car drives (I spent some time and have a wonderful Alfa GTA setup now, it's so quick and predicable and just makes it a joy to drive). Some cars like the KTM and the Cobra are real animals in their default tunes and with tuning become much more manageable if not fun to drive.

    As for the G29, I don't think it's quite optimized on the PS4 for AC (users comparing have said it's way better on the PC). There's a bit of a center dead-zone and the FFB is weaker than the Thrustmasters (perhaps at the benefit of being reliable). I have found increasing the Road FFB Setting % decreases that dead-zone "feel" so counter-steer response feels sharper and more accurate. I have both Master FFB and Road at 100% and it so I get quite a bit of shake, Slip around 30% and Curb around 20% as markers. Understeer effect on (to help with steady corner steering angle).
     
    Grijo likes this.
  2. Grijo

    Grijo Simracer

    FFB 100
    Kerb FFB 40
    Road FFB 50
    Slip FFB 0
    Understeer ON
    Use H Shifter OFF

    So that's the original settings that I'm using, the only thing I changed is the Understeer to "on". But with those settings, I think that the FFB is too stong and is too hard to steer. I think all the feelings are too "maximized"...I don't know exactly how to explain but it's not natural, you know, not the kind of reaction that I expect from a car. You can explain how those settings works? Any ideas to improve the feeling for a more soft feedback?

    PS: Sorry about any mistakes in my english
     
    paul_wev and Seria17hri11er like this.
  3. Traks1

    Traks1 Racer

    Try starting with 50% FFB and then take that up or down some to give the kind of "weight" to the wheel that you like with all else at 0% and understeer off. Then, only adjusting one thing at a time add, in let's say 5% increments to the other settings so that you can feel out for yourself what they each do in terms of feedback etc, then adjust to your taste. The G29 can feel a little "notchy" and rough if any of those other adjustments are too high though and you will end up with a nasty juddering mess. Personally, I'm liking it at around 40% FFB (depends on the car a bit), with everything else set at 0%. Gives me all the feedback information I need and feels pretty smooth too, which I prefer.

    Congrats on getting a wheel buddy. Enjoy ;)
     
    paul_wev and Grijo like this.
  4. Ace Pumpkin

    Ace Pumpkin Alien

    A good indicator, if your overall ffb gain is to high, is to look for clipping. If the game's output is to high for your wheel, the ffb simply goes dead.
    As I understand you have no ffb app showing the clipping on console, you can test this manually.
    Go to Nordschleife, and set your gain that high, it gives you the full ffb information, while going through Fuchsröhre, the big compression before Adenauer Forst.
    If your wheel goes dead after the compression, your gain is to high!
     
    paul_wev, kofotsjanne and Grijo like this.
  5. Grijo

    Grijo Simracer

    Ace, take it easy on me, I'm a newbie in a wheel, it's a new world for me, I don't know "the names" yet. I'm a "Rookie Pumpkin", not an Ace lol.
    Jokes appart, let me see if I understood correctly: FFB is the information about the car and / or track that the game pass too you through the wheel. Clipping is when this information is interrupted or, in other words, loss of the FFB. The clipping occur when the FFB is too high and the wheel can't "tell you" the correct information. FFB has to be a linear information and the clipping "breaks" that linearity with no information during a certain time (a second or less), what can make the driving a nightmare. Is that it?
    Please man, forgive me about my english, never learned that properly, only what I got in movies, music and games
     
    paul_wev and Ace Pumpkin like this.
  6. Grijo

    Grijo Simracer

    Thanks bro! I only drove for about 5 hours since I bought, my work and my wyfe are demmanding a lot of my time lol. But thanks for your heads up, certainly I will try that path, I really prefer a smooth response. It's like I'm fighting with the wheel with those default settings.
     
    paul_wev likes this.
  7. Ace Pumpkin

    Ace Pumpkin Alien

    You understood correctly. :)
    And Fuchsröhre is the ultimate corner to test the ffb gain in AC for all cars and tracks. BTW, can you change ffb independently for all cars on console, or can you only set an overall gain in the settings?
     
    Grijo likes this.
  8. Graveltrap

    Graveltrap Alien

    We only have access to overall settings, there is nothing car specific...yet...
     
    Grijo and Ace Pumpkin like this.
  9. OK, I would highly recommend you set


    Most important

    Road to 0

    Road at 50 is why it feels too strong.


    Allow me to teach you a little about the settings.

    Gain is your master, and usually people run it from about 60-100%


    Road & Slip

    Think of these as amplifiers. With these at 0, you still get Road feedback and Slip feedback. Increasing them amplifies forces already coming to your wheel.

    Road is just what you can guess it is: feedback from the road; bumps and cornering forces.

    Slip is a vibration from spinning/slipping/sliding tires.


    Kerb

    This is the only "Canned" effect. It will vibrate the wheel when going over kerbs, but, it will vibrate the wheel even if going over a flat kerb. Understand, your wheel should already vibrate when going over a kerb even with this at 0.


    Enhanced Understeer

    What you need to know, is that when you turn the wheel too much and get your front tires understeering (slipping), the force on the steering wheel drops. You should feel when you are understeering. Some wheels are quite hard to feel this drop. That's why this option is available. It increases the drop in force in an understeer condition.


    What you need to do.

    You need to set

    Gain 100%

    Road to 0


    Kerb to 0 or something much lower-- 5 (at least temporarily)

    Understeer off

    Then, go out and drive.
    Do at least 10 to 20 laps, perhaps more, just to adjust to the new feeling.

    Then ask, how does it feel? Does it feel too strong? Too light?

    Too strong: Reduce gain to 90 and test--the same car and track

    Still too strong? Reduce gain to 80 and test--the same car and track

    Too light: Do not increase gain past 100%. You will not get a higher force out of the wheel. Gain over 100 only ends up boosting lower and mid forces, and you end up loosing the higher strength forces. You will get FFB Clipping.

    If it's too light, or not enough feedback in general, take Road to 1 and test--the same car and track

    Still too light? Road to 2 and test.


    Right, the most important thing is getting your Gain right. Then if you feel like you are not getting enough feedback from the road you add Road.

    Then next most important thing is to go into a turn a little too fast, and turn aggressively so that you get understeer. Do that many times. When you understeer do you feel a drop in force? If not, enable Enhanced Understeer.

    Then ask yourself "am I getting some vibration or feeling when tires are slipping/sliding?" You can add Slip if you want more.

    Then you can ask, yourself "am I getting enough vibration from the kerbs?" If not, add some Kerb and test.



    That is the order you should go in.

    1. Gain 100

    2. Road 0

    3. Understeer off

    4. Slip 0

    5. Kerb 0


    ---

    1. Tweak Gain. When satisfied:

    2. Tweak Road (most PC players do not use road) Even 1% adds a lot. When satisifed

    3. Test for understeer, enable and test, disable and test.

    4. Tweak slip. When satisfied:

    5. Tweak kerb.
     
  10. BobTheDog

    BobTheDog Hardcore Simmer

    Nice post.
     
  11. Grijo

    Grijo Simracer

  12. You are welcome!

    You can, especially once you get the settings right. Then, it is a matter of time and practice ;)
     
    Horus, paul_wev and Grijo like this.
  13. Exage304

    Exage304 Gamer

    I'm going to play with the sensitivity and center spring setting is the LGS as well as AC FFB settings.

    I'm not completely happy with the way the G29 is responding during oversteer. Every other aspect it's seems fine driving.
    I boosted sensitivity up to 75% (from 50%) and it may have gotten better, may have been placebo. Unfortunately I have to work the next 4 days so I both won't have much time to test, and may have to adjust to the update if that drops as well.

    Another thing is I'm not thrilled with on the G29 is the clutch engagement point at the very bottom and engagement travel is so little (it's like an on/off switch basically), which I suppose it is like that on a McLaren GTR but not on a Fiat 500. I don't see anything in the LGS to adjust pedal dead-zone yet, only sensitivity.
     
  14. @Grijo

    Did you get the wheel set up well for you?
     
    Grijo likes this.
  15. Grijo

    Grijo Simracer

    Not yet my friend. My work and my wife are taking all my time :). We will have a 2 days holiday here in Brazil during next week, I think I´ll be able to set my wheel properly in these days. And I have to confess that I bought a wheel stand fot the G29 because I wasn´t using a proper place to fix it. Probably the wheel stand will arrive in my home by thursday. It´s your fault :p, I got so confident after what you said to me that I spent more money trying to get the better experience possible.

    As soon as I be able to set my wheel, I´ll let you know. Thanks for your concern my friend. Cheers!
     
    Horus, paul_wev, TitzonToast and 3 others like this.
  16. bradleyland

    bradleyland Hardcore Simmer

    Aren't you on PS4? LGS is for PC only.
     
  17. Exage304

    Exage304 Gamer

    Yes

    Nope, it made a difference when I ramped up the sensitivity from 50-90% and saved the profile to the wheel. It's reacting better now on the PS4.
     
    bradleyland likes this.
  18. bradleyland

    bradleyland Hardcore Simmer

    There's a lot of really great FFB setup info in here, but car selection is important starting out. All of the Ruf cars in the game are pretty tough to drive. They're rewarding once you've got some skill development out of the way, but starting out, they can be pretty brutal. Here's a list of cars that I found very rewarding, but also approachable:

    Road Cars - Front-engine, Rear-drive
    BMW M3 E92 - IMO, this might be the most approachable road car in the game. The chassis balance is far enough toward understeer that you won't find yourself spinning out, but it is possible to induce turn-in oversteer with the right amount of trail braking. This is a car that teaches you how to drive fast, even if the car itself isn't the fastest.

    BMW M3 E92 Step 1 - Avoid the temptation to jump in this car right away. Spend some time with the base car. It won't take you long to get comfortable and move up to the Step 1.

    BMW M3 E30 - The E30 rewards momentum Unlike the E92, you don't have the power to pull you out of a bad line. In order to drive fast, the E30 demands that you think two corners ahead.

    Road Cars - Mid-engine, Rear-drive
    Lotus Exige S - This is a great car to introduce you to the driving dynamics of a mid-engine car. Pretty much anything road car with a Lotus badge on it offers a master course in how a car should handle.

    Alfa Romeo 4C - Similar to the Exige S, but this one has a bit more bite. It's not as fast, but also not as stable. The 4C requires that you mind your manners a bit more.

    Ferrari 458 Italia - Of the fast exotics, I find the 458 Italia to be the most approachable. The 488 GTB is faster, but it's characteristics are far more prickly. The 458 understeers more, even if you lift. The naturally aspirated V8 in the 458 is more linear as well. The torque of the 488 GTB makes it very easy to end up sideways.

    Race Cars
    BMW M235i Racing - This car is fantastic! I'm not sure there's a more approachable race car anywhere in any racing game. It's like a GT4-light. The gear selection takes some getting used to (the car has too many gears for racing), but the chassis feedback is great, and the limits are extremely progressive for a race car.
     
    paul_wev, Grijo and Seria17hri11er like this.
  19. Hey friend, I know all about that! I have a dog and 2 kids in addition to a wife! :D

    Sweet. :D

    When you spend money on this hobby (AC -sim driving/racing), just remember to compare against the actual costs of owning a sports car, and taking it to the track once a week.

    The cost of this hobby, is ludicrously cheap compared to owning and tracking a real car. ;)



    Well said!
     
    Horus, Grijo and bradleyland like this.
  20. Grijo

    Grijo Simracer

    I have just the wife, but it´s almost like a have a wife, three kids, a dog, two cats, a hamster...lol, just kidding...it´s more than that :p

    Excellent point of view! Now I have something to say to my wife lol:). You helped me again, you´re my new best friend! If she turns crazy and start to talk "Okay, so It´s me or your game and wheel", I will say "Honey, I´m saving money! Think, if I buy a car, I will have to spend a good money to turn this into a track day car. Add to that the anual taxes, fuel...you see? And I´m not putting mine or your life in risk. I want to have fun, but I´m doing that with low cost."
    Man, you´re a genius! Thanks again;)
     
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