Tuners wanted! Share your setups.

I think it's a little difficult to explain, but i'll try:

Optimal setup is a combination of many factors; a balance between front and rear setup values.
Changing a value may affect the car behaviour solving an understeer issue creating some other at the rear.
Stiffening the front arb affect both front and rear reactions; involves the tire's work and their temps.

What i mean is that the final setup is a mix, a compromise, of all variables plus the driving technique.
A pilot may have the tendency to start to turn a corner with no gas, another one may apply a little of traction in the same condition; the car behaviour will not be the same, the setup will not be the same.

 

You have got me thinking is the front left hotter because of

• the wheel that is used for steering and on the outside of the turn
• aggressive breaking in a turn
• over-steering (I did a few spins, back stepped out and that was that! Spin)

What would be the solutions to the above?

I have not really noticed in AC do we get temp across the tyre? Would this not tell us uneven wear on the tyre and or too much/too little camber.

 

That's kind of what I was trying to say, and yes I do understand that there are so many variables that compromises and a mix will be needed.

 

Tire temperature is quite important factor; too low or too high may cause premature wear of tyre.
A cold tyre may cause understeer, slip, wear because creep.
A too hot tyre will cause similar issues; the temp will increase the internal pressure and that will cause slipping.

This is what happens in real world.

I have track experience in karting; we were used to read tyre temp and pressure after every session and the work was to balance pressures maintaining 80-85°C for each tyre.

Find an optimal setup may require a lot of laps and attemps.
Try to modify a value then did some laps. Understand how the car reacts and, if required, change another value.
One value per session.
Repeat until the best compromise has found.

 

yes it will give you a good indication of the camber setup, ideally you want as much tyre touching the tarmac at all times, lower the contact patch less mechanical grip.

if you are spinning out you could either lower the rear arb making the car softer on the back or stiffen up the font.. in your case because you are oversteering i would soften up the rear.. if you stiffened the front you might dial in some understeer but you would still have the back end doing what it did in the first place..

you have to think about whats happening on corner entry, mid corner and corner exit and depending where your having your problems it narrows down what variables you should change.

 

You really can't go too far wrong reading the tips in AC for each setup parameter.

Also, it helps to picture in your head the tyres and how turning and body roll, etc effects them.

 

Last night it was all stock settings for BMW M3 E30 S1. Just feeling the car and trying to learn what was happening, I think it is, do this a lot more before getting deeper into the actual set-up. Learning what I have to look for, so that when I do change things I can see of feel the subtle changes.

 

Thanks to all you guys for the help so far it might seem a little but it has already got me closer to the understanding.

 

Go get speed secrets no.1 and no.2

 

You mean by Ross Bentley?

 

http://www.amazon.it/gp/product/0760340501/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A11IL2PNWYJU7H

 

I think this is a great idea like this format http://www.setupgrid.net/ for live for speed has been a great help to me over the years . Yes we all have our different styles of driving but we all have to start somewhere i'm not very setup minded but know a good "set" when i drive one also it makes the playing field more equal and challenging as everyone has sets originating from something like this some kind of set sharing should be a part of AC too they could learn a lot for live for speed and the social side of it.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Speed-Sec...188?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d0605adc

 

Thanks Chris.
For me the quickest and quite reasonable is to get a digital copy from Amazon. I live in France and shipping could be the price of the book.

• EUR 15,61 For the book
• EUR 10,67 Format Kindle

the second book is

• EUR 13,89 For the book
• EUR 9,49 Format Kindle

 

i suppose a digital copy would be ok.. ive read them about 3 times now and use them as a reference book so i have notes etc jotted about.. i used them when i was racing so paper made sense.

 

Well I am sitting in my mini Mancave and I believe I can make notes in the file

Via Tapatalk

 

that would be ok then

 

What everybody else has said, and just to add to start slow, change little and change only what you understand.

For me, I typically start with setting toe -0.05 front, 0.05 back for RWD cars, because if I do any laps in pure default, after a few laps I find myself do that anyway. I also like to run a little soft, so typically drop 2-4 psi from the default tire pressure all around. For Monza I may not change pressure. I also set the diff around 50/50, because I always end up doing that anyway. From there I run laps and laps, and change just a few things - in more or less following order - apart from #1 only when I am not happy with how the car drives:

1. in practice, put the gas in I plan to practice for. For hotlaps, low. For (endurance racing), about 3/4 of what I would start with.
2. start with default aero. For long straight dominant tracks like Monza, slowly decrease until you feel you get a little loose in fast corners, then back 1 off. For curvy tracks like Mugello, start with default and see if you can full-throttle the fast turns. If you can't, give the aero a tick up.
3. If I am having trouble with traction in slow corners (and losing a lot of time there), I increase camber a bit (more negative)
4. In cars where you can adjust gearing, see whether you just about hit the limiter in top gear right before braking on the longest straight. If not, shorten the ratio until it does, and shorten the rest in balance, so you get a nice "curve" (not an S-shape) in the gear controls. If you feel some important short straights make you want to shift up before braking or acceleration feels slow, adjust gear ratios until you are near limiter at the end of short straights as well (without sacrificing acceleration or top speed)

With 2-4, these are really minor adjustments, of 1-2 ticks at the time, but usually not far off default. No extreme settings for me.

Other settings I use sparingly. Ride height, if the car gets stuck on curbs. Little softer springs if the tracks is very bumpy, etc.

 

Just an FYI. Aris from Kunos told me in a conversation that all the default setups are factory setups. Even for racing cars. So, we can have faith that what we are starting with is the real deal.

 

That really confirms to only change little and by little. Whenever I am no longer sure what I've done with my setup really improves things, I just reset to default, reapply my standard changes, and start again from there.