Update 1.12 discussion

IIRC that is something the newer McLaren have. Brake the inner rear wheel to get better turn in. So similar to rear axle steering, but mostly affects the front of the car and not (also) the rear.
I don't know if Porsche does something like that as well, but I thought it was McL-only.

 

Aka "torque/brake vectoring".Porsche does it too, but it doesn't feel much different to me.Are you sure your game data is okey? Try a integrity check through Steam.To me the 911 R actually feels more stable while braking, and the GT3 RS is as edgy as before.

 

Ahhhh ok, PTV I was aware ok. As I understand it, PTV simply gives more torque to wheel with the most traction and applies brake to the inside wheel during turn in. Although I wasnt aware if this was modeled in AC or not.


I drove the GT3 RS at Trento, feels about the same to me, perhaps a be crisper on turn in. Hmmm. Either way I like it.

 

Right, now that you mention torque vectoring I remember that Porsche does have stuff like that as well.
But I guess rear wheel steering is the bigger effect on the newer Porsche cars, if they have it.
(I think the 718 Cayman/Boxster only has the brake steering and no rear wheel steering, the 911s do have both.)

 

@Orne: It is simulated, it was probably quite a bit of work for Aris to get those to work, alongside the dynamic ARB's and rear wheel steering.
@Berniyh: Yeah, you wouldn't normally notice brake vectoring/torque vectoring, other than better response on turn in and mid-corner, but apparently it eats brake pads like crazy.I've seen a recent review where the Honda NSX was running dangerously low on its brake pad "life" at the end of the test, that's horrible...I still prefer the feel of a mechanical LSD, even though the modern electronic stuff allows for more adjustability.

 

Does anybody else think that after update braking is not that hard any more in cars without ABS?Braking was hardest part to me for example in E30 DTM.Yesterday I tried it and its easy to drive gotta try more cars.To me its better now I will spend more time in oldschool cars.

 

Well porsche can call it what ever they like, this is a game though, and when you turn, the rear brake calipers are engaged. Often to the point of instability:

 

Yes, me. On the rennsimulanten DTM server they using the gr.a BMW, Mercedes and Alfa Romeo. Previously a downside to using Alfa was that it has no ABS but now that downside is pretty much taken away. I didnt see any changes to this car that can affect the brakes. The f40 was also easier to brake with now but that might be because of brake temp.

 

@Tombs: Make a thread in the support section, no developer will look into it here .

 

Gotta try Yellowbird today.Thats hardest car for me to brake it locks wheels so easy I understand that at low speeds but sometimes it locks when braking at speeds above 100km/h.So it was scary to slow down that beast after long straigts at least to me ...

 

I'd rather not end up disappeared in the middle of the night and interrogated at a black site.

 

@djtopa: Oh really, that's hard to brake? Try the 718 RS60, I find that car so weird on the brakes, if I brake lightly it locks the rear wheels, if I brake consistenly hard it actually stops but then jolts the rear afterwards, I actually have to lock the wheels up a bit to do any kind of useful braking.It's very annoying because I'm really far off pace-wise to drivers of similar skill level, and I think most of it is due to the braking.
@Tombs: Won't happen, make that post .

 

Huh? Even with the SV tyres you need relatively high brake input to lock the wheels in the YellowBird.
If you have issues with that car, how can you drive any other car?
Or did you forget to blip the throttle on downshifts? That's a requirement in almost any older car.

The main problem with the YellowBird was the rear letting go when you weren't careful with the throttle, but that is massively improved with the v10 tyres.

 

Weird. You've run an integrity check ?

 

Ohhhh I will have to check this out. I would on occassionally drive the 911R with ABS disabled, I found it very difficult to get a feel for proper braking without lockup. I imagine threshold braking would be much easier with a higher end set up pedals. I am just using a G29 with the default pedals. Seriously considering upgrading to a AccuForce Pro or a Fanatec clubsport, using the V3 pedals.

 

I didnt tried "New" cars without ABS because I drive all assist off exept ABS on Factory.So I dont know about cars like 911R I never drive it without ABS....

 

Well, there are a few vintage cars that do now feature brake temp simulation. I don't know if the E30 DTM is one of them since I didn't drive it after the update, but might be.
That could explain why the brakes don't engage the same way they did before.

 

I just tried the 911R. Reaching the bite point requires a bit more travel in the brake pedal now. Much easier to brake without lockup, at least compared to the previous setting.

 

Hmm thats strange I tried almost everything on setup cambers,toe,brakes,tyres....and always braking is hard for me in that RUF or in Mclaren F1.I dont use blip I have to practice it more.I have it enabled in settings "auto blip" is that working on old cars like those two or just on newer ones?Thanks
Also I have G27 stock and I thing brake is worst part of that wheel.Or maybe my wheel setup isnt good but there I tried almost everything regards brakes haha

 

I'm not sure if auto-blip works if you're using an H-Shifter, might be that it only works when you're using paddles or a sequential shifter.
Anyway, my experience (e.g. with the 911R) is that sometimes the auto-blip isn't strong enough and you might add a blip yourself.

For the YellowBird, if you go for 58 or 59% brake bias (which would result in good braking without engine brake), you have to blip the engine or the rear will lock up due to the lower angular momentum of the engine.
Alternatively you can set the brake bias to 60-61% and then use the engine braking aggressively, but that will lead to the inner front wheel locking up under braking in some corners.

My suggestion would be to set the car to 58-59% brake bias and then brake into the corner where you had issues before without downshifting, just to see if everything works as expected.
Then try to do the same with blip and downshift, but do the downshift very late. From there on you can try to improve your skill by downshifting earlier.

Regarding the hardware, I can only advise you to get a loadcell setup. It's worth it.
Doesn't have to be as expensive as mine, the Fanatecs are quite good as well.