Can FFB Clip be used after generating a LUT ?

After reading the following in the Lut Gen instructions, I wasn't sure


After this, do not alter the FFB Strength in your wheel's profiler!! If you change the FFB Gain in your wheel's profiler, you should rerun wheelcheck+lutgenerator.

 

Read it again, it's talking about the FFB strength in your wheel profiler, not the FFB strength in-game.

(Basically the reasoning is that altering the FFB strength in the wheel settings could result in a different LUT. The FFB strength in-game is not affecting that.)

 

Ok, cool that makes sense. Thanks !

 

Or is it? Overall FFB strength at the wheel is a combination of in game and profile gain settings. When you do wheelcheck and LUT generation it assumes 100% signal gain, essentially tests at the max profile set gain capacity. If you are not at 100% "effective" gain in game, the things might change.

 

The profiling is done outside of the game, so the LUT won't be any different.

 

What I am saying it that you need to profile at effective gain you will be using.
E.g. you set driver to 60% and do profiling, that LUT will be perfect if you have 100% signal (in game gain).
If you drop in game gain to 50%, the profiling must be done at 30% (as this is your final "effective" gain) and all consumer wheels have different linearity at different max gain settings.
In practice if you just use FFBClip to eliminate clipping and maximizing in game gain otherwise, that shouldn't be the issue.

With DD wheels though if you use low in game settings, it will. But they do not need LUT to begin with.

 

That is wrong. The LUT is completely separate from the in-game gain.

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Can you please explain, how. Where the logic is faulted?

I understand that it is generated outside game but if you do wheelcheck with say T300 with 100% max force in driver and then with 50% you will get different linearity graphs and therefore different LUTs.

Now if you have 100% in driver and only 50% in game, the actual force is multiple of both that is 50% overall, you get linearity curve equivalent to having just 50% in driver, not 100% you used to generate LUT.

 

The lut makes your wheel's forces linear, meaning between min (no force) and max (all the force the wheel's willing to provide). The ingame multiplier just multiplies this so it stays linear. The game's multiplier isn't working on a 0-100% scale that becomes 0-50%, it's working on a 0-infinity scale where forces that result in higher than 100% get turned into 100%, if you have it set to 50% ingame, then a force that would have clipped on 100% won't clip anymore, a force that's less than 100% would be linear at either setting. The wheel's FFB percentage does whatever it wants (change deadzone, move elbow where forces drop off) so it won't have the same LUT at different settings.

 

Thanks Stereo, follow up question. Does that also mean that old mantra of using most linear response in driver gain just doesn't apply, as you can just set driver to 100% and drop in game gain to eliminate all possible clipping w/o need for time consuming per car/track tuning.

 

My opinion is pick the most linear response that can hit full power of the wheel. The lut improves things but starting out with something more linear gives it a better basis to work from.

 

Exactly. The must linear setting that give you max force from your wheel. Let LUT linearize, and FFBClip maximize.

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Excellent. Thanks for all the info !!!

 

True story:

This dood (Orne) was running Min Force at 19 before he setup a LUT. Lulz.

 

I was trying to get those Popeye forearms!!!! HAHAHAHAHHHA Some days I'm a blunt instrument. "Cave man want to sim race, set all FFB settings to max, caveman now sim racer" HAHAHAH


I have noticed a small amount of centered spring gets rid of the deadzone sloppiness, although too much and precise car control becomes difficult.

 

after trying many different ffb settings,
I am actually running that way since the first day .LUT was ever available.
.Lut
FFBClip set to Dnyamic Auto Normal (latest one has a bug, it starts dynamic auto but doesnt take affect unless you click dynamic again, you can set defaults in its config)
Gyro Enabled (Aristo also uses Gyro AFAIK)

This is best feeling (I guess it is subjective) I think I get from my G27.
Feel everything on Straights, Clip as low as possible in Corners.

 

tbh, I'm no longer using FFBClip. I've gone through wheelcheck and LUT generator and I'm still using that, but FFBClip got annoying with the auto thing.
Also, on different cars you end up with different FFB strength settings, which in return feels weird sometimes when you're changing cars.

Since I'm not too bothered about the clipping, I'll just leave it at 100% for all cars in the future and be done.
I don't think there is a reason to be overly scientific about this topic.
I mean: Yeah, there is clipping, but whatever …

 

Lol. Wrong.

 

Speaking of clipping:

 

It's a compromise, like almost everything else regarding sim racing. For most wheels, SOME clipping is nescessary, even the strongest DD wheels clip occasionally. It's just a matter of finding a compromise you can live with. If you are unaware what clippping is and how it affects your experience of a sim it can "bleed" over to your perception of the tire model and consequently the whole experience. If the built in tools can help with that I'm all for it. If an external tool can "perfect" it, great!

For me, and some other people, the default compromise is not a great one. It allows for too much clipping on most tracks. Using Vallelunga club as a benchmark is perhaps programmatically convenient, but a completely flat track is not allowing enough headroom.

I agree that some people take the quest for non-clipped driving too far, an educated fanbase is a happy fanbase!