Tacticle Tranducers/Bass Shakers and your optimal build

* Just to correct part of the above... Noticed I had loaded a different save profile (manual settings) to check the engine CM-EM defaults.
They actually are all 10/135 Hz on EM channels and CM including that using the new Quad Mode.

 

Yep, I'm happy to help where I can guys.

Extensions Mode in SC4 does have mono suspension support - usually by way of the Road-Bump effects (Assetto Corsa) or Vertical Surges (ISI based titles). For anyone having issues with telemetry recording not working in SC4, that's an issue generally related to SC4 not finding the proper game data/communication protocol or device (hardware) issue.

 

Okay appreciate having a thread just for that topic as it will be easier for anyone to keep track of the discussion.

 

Just a tease from part of the ongoing work towards the engine tutorial.
I now have totally went through, all options for the standard engine, engine harmonics/load and quad engine modes. All will be uncovered as to what settings do and how to create superb engine effects.

One issue with Simvibe is that it does not support a TEST TONE feature.

How about an engine setting that produces accurate tones for every 1000 rpm
This way you can determine how your tactile operates from within Simvibe at different Hz, discover what frequencies may feel best or may be causing resonance in your rig.

What is the peak center frequency for this 5,000 RPM

 

A test-tone might be useful but, it's also quite useful to be able to tune SimVibe while in-game; it doesn't seem to work with all games but, with any that allow it and AC does although, I have to trick it into working most of the time. It's been a while since doing it so I'll have to try and re-visit my steps and report back. I've used that method to tune the AccuForce as I drive.

 

This is rather simple but will work with no tricks as it's all done internally within Simvibe, just by applying appropriate engine settings and a suitable car.

I suppose it can be used as a tactile/shaker tuning tool to help set volume for the engine effects but my intention for it is within manual engine profile creation.
It can be used as a fixed basis of "felt sensation" for people to create engine effects from and now know what Hz they are feeling across the RPM range.

If someone then thinks okay I want that sensation at 3,000-6,000 but for it to come in at 80% RPM range in whatever car then things like this will be simplified. The tutorial will show how to understand and relate RPM/Hz for any car and how to adapt whatever Hz you want to feature at specific RPM ranges.

Do people have any cars, in particular, they think from an engine tactile perspective feel better or more exciting using the default (auto RPM) with a universal profile? Or perhaps one they wish was better?

 

I'd be interested in how to get best results with cars that have extremely high RPM ranges as those tend to result in only feeling the lower range while the upper range becomes muddled.

 

Okay, yes lots of people may want to improve this as it is evident in many of the high RPM based cars that should be exciting and full of energy at the top RPM end but instead feel as hair-raising as an electric shaver.

I would say it's a limitation of a single layer and the "Auto" RPM detection which is a great feature, so that is suits cars from low RPM to 12000+ RPM but using the default 10-135Hz in the frequency spectrum. Many cars, even V8 are into 80 Hz by 5,000 RPM having already used the best bass if using a standard/static single layer with default settings. I've seen some of those high RPM cars idle at 40Hz.

The closest working effect without creating manually to this is the "engine load option" within the harmonic/load. This seems a new unique effect and I like how it can work off high pedal depression (altered by minimum vol, different values may suit different cars with higher RPM range) or be set to a target volume and Hz to be constantly on (relative volume).

Quad mode does highlight some potential (much more is still possible) with using manual settings and not auto settings. Notice 3 of the layers it uses are manually configured for additional engine enhancement or character. Yet even these settings are to appeal to a wide range of cars and not be specifically tuned to any set or individual cars.

While it has a faulty 0dB issue nothing stopping you using it now by lowering the (sensitivity/volume) of all 4 layers, or just create 4x single layers manually with the values/settings it has.

Hadnt been looking for a while but there is good reason why some people commented on the official forums that "Range 3" feels nice. I also seen one guy comment on harmonics but wanted the volume lower at the front (simple to do just run 2x harmonic/load layers with one for only Rear and one only for Front) with whatever volume or settings you want each to have. This is also a good way to experiment with using the "load" effect to be more perceptible for a (front/rear) engine based car if desired.

 

Hi, I come to you as a complete simvibe novice. I recently did some modifications to my playseat and added 7 tactile transducers, 4 for chassis & 3 for extended in the seat, gear shift & pedals. I had just loaded up the default settings for Chassis & Extended and now am looking to understand how to make the experience more responsive.

So far in Chassis settings, I have turned off engine vibration, gear change, impacts, & road bumps (latter 2 only stopped today but not tested yet so not sure if they will effect below points). After reading some threads on members lounge I have added Engine RPM quad stream & engine wheel lock up. I have not tested these as yet. In Extended I have not modified any of the default settings.

A few things I've noticed and would like some advice on.

1. If I blow the engine and then just drive the car over the rumble strips, off track or over bumps I get no response from any of the transducers.
2. I don't seem to get L/R distinction in F/R but I notice that i had road bumps enabled in chassis which i now understand to be mono?
3. What is a good starting point for AC when running both chassis & extended with 7 transducers?

Thanks.

 

Hi Magus, you seem to of jumped right in at the deep end going with 7 units.

1) The issue with the engine may be internal code either from the physics or Simvibe.
If the same happens with motion and it stopping when the engine blows, then I would estimate its physics related, if not then its possibly Simvibe.

2) Only Suspension based effects offer it seems stereo. Best Stereo for me in AC uses Sensitivity setting of 96% for front and 88% rear.

3) Do one effect at a time, learn the basics of how frequencies feel and work. Find what frequencies Hz & what intensity/volumes feel good for each type of effect. Not all effects have the same level of output.

I cant speak for others but have found some textures with this title have issues as covered in this thread. Personally, I don't think estimated wheel lock is worth using.
Be careful how you use the intensity slider, 0dB is not always the best. Engines in this title at least are very strong by default +3db from what I have seen compared to some other effects, hence why they at default they are -2dB.

You dont say what units you have, shakers tend to hit harder with lowest frequencies than transducers will. My own personal experience is that what units you own may determine what Hz and Intensity work as a balance for the "Simvibe Output" with your effects prior to amplification. Others may have different experiences.

As an example if I run my TST 429 with an effect to highlight "engine slow down and inertia" from 4000 RPM - 1 RPM using a setting with 5-20Hz only.
I can set the intensity to 0.5 - 0dB and it work fine on the TST 429 transducer. If I try the same on my BK-LFE it shakes the cockpit like crazy and things in the room, I mean REALLY powerful energy.
Basically the intensity is far too strong going into the amp for the BK-LFE as the biggest shakers do not struggle with these frequencies yet the transducer does and I had to reduce the intensity for it to approx - 1.5db. They also are being powered by different amps and this as well may be a factor.


Note on dB
(+ 3dB is twice the measured energy)
(+ 6 to +10db increase with audio/sound by human ear is twice as loud. Each person's perception varies, it is not measurable)

 

Thanks for responding Mr Latte!

I did a DIY budget job on my playseat & went from this:



To this:







So I have 6 of the Rockwood BS301-L shakers and one without the shell cut into the seat. The shakers are 100w @ 4ohms. I'm also using 3 x skytec amps (2x spl500, 1 x spl400) & a cheap car amp for the pedals. It's basically what I could pick cheap from ebay used.

So after some testing today, taking the Road bumps off the chassis has given me some sensation of L/R in F&R. I switched the amps off for extended but wasn't able to get anything notable from the Engine RPM quad stream when revving the car?

When you say "Best Stereo for me in AC uses Sensitivity setting of 96% for front and 88% rear.", do you mean Bumps, Bump Surges, or both?

Thanks

 

Thanks for sharing, that white model was my first ever cockpit going back a few years ago.
Your off to a good start. I have been researching 4 ohm car amps lately and powering them with PC PSU. I may add a car amp and head unit to control my 4 subs I use on the CM or with "audio tactile".

Nice seat upgrade btw.
What isolators/shocks are those?

Personally I would go with Left/Right 4-5mm steel plate underneath the seat slider mechanism the seat attaches too.
That should transfer each units effects better to each side. The more you prevent any leakage from the other channel to the point of connection then the better.
It jumbles together in the seat of course but you can ensure the left seat rail is only getting the left channel.

Regards suspension, waiting for Dean to start a new thread...
If he does then maybe people can easily share/compare settings to find some that may work for each other.
My settings may not be best for others.

 

Yes, it's my 1st ever cockpit too & still going.
The isolators again were purchased from ebay used. They are this one HERE. I really wanted the red springs but it would have added another £100 to the cost as I would have had to got the new from ISL. The blues cope well with my weight & up to 90kgs.

Yes I see what you are saying about the steel across the rear. It's the same for the front as one sheet of steel runs across the t-bone of the chassis. I guess I didn't really think of it under the seat as my initial goal was to try to have the shakers with a top-down effect (although this proved unachievable in the front). AT the moment I'm not thinking about taking it apart again but give me a few months and that may change

 

I ran the record lap telemetry & happier with the default (padlock) options. I've added a few that do not get auto-tuned by the telemetry but the one that is catching me out and an effect that I really like is the Engine RPM Quad Stream. I've only tested this in AC but it seems that this effect needs to have its Intensity at 0db, even 0.1 deviation from max makes this effect zero output.

 

Yes the effect has a fault with the volume setting, this will be fixed in an update.

You can get around this by altering the first layer volume slider at the bottom, it is the main layer that uses the full rev range as is AUTO RPM detectable.
Of course you can also reduce the other layers volume too.

The alternative is to jot down all the settings these layers have and create 4 manual layers with the same settings then just adjust their own volumes independently until a fix comes.

 

Thanks Mr Latte, I'm just starting to get my head around this software, I appreciate your input.

 

No probs, I appreciate the like....

 

Any simvibe setting recommendations for a single transducer mounted to a wood rig?
At the moment using shifts, engine vibration, vertical surges and roadbumps.

Grüße, Fritz


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cool topic

 

for a 4 transducer setup in chassis mode, what's the best location to install it?
should I install all 4 under the seat bottom?

or install 2 by the pedal? but I heard these transducer can interfere with the pedal signal