Go Faster - 4 Weight transfer part 1 at game&track YT channel

SCNR

 

Some people seem to struggle with the stiff setup here. I think this was supposed to be the subject of the next video but spring change will affect the balance of your car. Aris changed front spring from 38->50 and rear spring from 24->40 which changed the total lateral load transfer distribution (balance of the car) from 74.68% REAR to 67.42% REAR. That's very significant change towards oversteer and apparently it suit his driving style as well. Changing rear spring is usually a very big deal because more often the default anti-roll bar at rear is very weak or non-existent. To keep the balance of the default setup you would need to run front spring at 50 and rear spring at 30. I suggest trying that to everyone struggling with snappiness and oversteer with "full stiff setup".

edit. Btw @Aristotelis , showing TLLTD on setup screen would help everyone experiencing with springs and ARBs.

 

It's not so bad with the soft default spring rate.

I did 2:00.382(I made sure that I didn't put ketchup on my spaguetti)


Next I'm going to try stiffer.

 

Yeah, I remember in Netkar Pro in the setup screen it showed all that stuff, I miss it now we have to experience it or do some math like you did or sth

 

Thank You again Aristotelis!
Another great example of how we can make learning RaceCraft and car setup more fun and interesting; "ArisAcademy"!

 

hi @Aristotelis. on a related note: can you reccommend a car on which it is the best to try out how setup effects the behaviour of the car? honestly, I really dont know this stuff, but I have a hunch that on some it is more "visible" or ""feelable"" ( ) than on others, if you know what I mean. I suck at setups, I have no idea where to begin, what to expect, and I figured I'd choose a car and a shorter track, and just sit with it for a while, trying out extremes and stuff to finally get whats going on.

thanks, your videos help a lot.

cheers
Dávid

ps: see answer #63 for example. like how do you know this stuff, man?

 

@Minolin A good read that explains your observation, I recommend it to anyone who really wants to understand instead of learning "magic" tricks: http://racingcardynamics.com/weight-transfer/

 

I didn't do a lot of laps, more or less Aris style - change something, do the outlap then two hot laps and back to pits. Maybe that's why my differences in lap times aren't that big between different wheel rate settings, but I noticed different behaviour between them. Stock is too soft that is most noticeable in mid-high speed turns, stiff is getting a bit too nervous for my liking, but it's manageable. The one in the middle (values from my saved setup) is the one I like the most, not that much of a jelly as the stock one but not that nervous as the stiff one. Here are laps and setup values that have been changed, if it's not mentioned it means it's left at default.

Laps 1-5 - Aris setup: gears - 9/42, pressures left - 26, right - 28


Laps 5-10 (crashed on 8th so restarted from pits): gears - 9/42, pressures left - 28, right - 30, brake bias - 62, diff coast - 40



Laps 11-13: gears - 9/42, pressures left - 28, right - 30, brake bias - 62, diff coast - 40, wheel rate front 42 rear 30, ride height front - 20, rear - 5



Laps 14-16: gears - 9/42, pressures left - 28, right - 30, brake bias - 62, diff coast - 40, wheel rate front 50, rear 40, ride height front - 13, rear - 3



After first stint with Aris' setup I adjusted pressures adding 2psi on both sides, since they were blue-ish, also changed brake bias and coast to something that I'm usually using because I really don't like default brake bias. Then did another stint with those adjustments but still with default wheel rates. In the end stock/soft is ~0.4s slower than medium and ~0.1s faster (!) than stiff.

Lap times aren't that important here (IMO) because two hotlaps on each setup probably won't give believable results, but the main topic here - car behaviour change, is noticeable with each one of those three wheel rates settings. The biggest change (for me) is under braking to T1 and T10 - the stiffer the suspension the better it feels. Also exit from T3 - the stiffer it is the rear is more likely to step out, but with soft it's harder to get a good run through the turn. T6 and T12 are the turns when the understeer is the most annoying with default setup and it gets better with stiffer suspension.

Sorry for wall of text.

 

It's called stability of the car and engineers actually can calculate "Stability Index" which basically means how drive-able the car is. Slow human reaction time is the reason why the fastest setup for any human driver is not the fastest absolute setup that a bot could deal with. Modern cars can run setup with low stability index (high driver complain index) but stabilize the car with electronics (which lowers the driver complain index). It obviously depends on the driver as well how high the stability of the car has to be where driver is comfortable.

 

Comparison



In my opinion it function a lot with the load on the tires. The car is light, lack of power & lack of downforce. Stiffen the spring rate on that car help to get the load to increase the temperature quicker to optimal. One side of the rear tire doesn't heat up which can be remedy by increasing the differential lock on either acceleration of deceleration.

Set the suspension for driving style is total myth for me. I believe doing to get the best out of the tire is what make more sense to me.

2:00.152 with stiff


If I were to flat shift, I'll probably get under 2min without effort. Much lower with proper alignment.

 

Pretty sure you can get under 2min, just by max the revs out before shifting and avoid that kerb-bump at T10.

 

@Tberg I overlooked...

 

Thank you Aris for the impressing video and the impressing amount of knowledge. I am new in simracing and love it. And i love the way how you and the other guys at kunos do your "job" (if it could be called job) with heart and brain. This combination happens not so often.
And thanks to all the guys here that make this place everyday worth to look and read and laugh and learn and so on....

(my english is not so good, sorry!)

 

Very helpful for amateurs in car technology and setups like myself. Springs and bumpers and such stuff I always found to be the most difficult to understand (and to keep on memory). Much appreciated that you do this video, thanks!

 

@Tberg Thanks I manage to get 1:59.346 by simply rev higher on the stiff setup.


Few PSI tweak, change the front camber & toy with the differential along with flat shifting would probably easy get me in the 1:58.*** effortless.

 

Yesterday evening I drove the Porsche 935 Moby Dick, it had been a while.

After some laps I wasn't too happy with the setup, made minor adjustments to the PSI (+1 all around) and little on the rear camber (0.2 or 0.3 more neutral camber), but the main change after the first few laps was increasing the spring rates while keeping the ride height constant.
Iirc front 43 to 58 N/mm, rear 59 to 74 or 77 N/mm and this makes the whole car more precise and stable, especially in the late braking phase as the front brakes are fading and BB shifts towards the rear which can unsettle the car. Now the car feels more intuitive and easier to balance the car or catch if it starts to slide.

 

About that,
@Aristotelis , why is it we should aim for the default hight, when altering the springs? Is it just a rule of thumb, or is the default ridehight the "best" overall for the givin car, and how did you determine the default hight in the first place?


Best