Help me suck less! Tier 3 Career, Pro settings, X-Bow R: Ugh!

You should add this to your setup guide. Matches with what's already in there nicely.

 

Actually meant lowering the car overall was a bit of a typo but the ktm even if min at rear, its 25 to 30mm above front which has a min height of 60mm. I was actually few clicks from min rear with 60mm at front so typo was fairly wrong.

You never want the rear lower then the front in any car. Normally set front as low as possible and rear for balance but always keep this higher then the front.

 

I'm still not very good with setups, so is there a rule of thumb I can follow regarding front-rear height balance? Should I keep the balance that is set by default, lowering/raising both ends equally or do I want to go for a certain ratio?

 

Here are my settings for the g27 wheel and pedals. Pretty basic main change there is making the brake linear which to me makes it easier to learn how far to press the pedal. I dont need to put the brake to the floor much and so just control it this way, works for me if it does for others I have no idea but may be worth a try if your struggling. In car setup I have never adjusted the brake pressure for any car as I havent felt the need for this.



These are the adjutsments I made to the assetto_corsa.ini found at \Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg

Code:

[FORCE_FEEDBACK]
FF_SKIP_STEPS=0 ; Physics engine steps to skip in order to accomodate wheels with lower FF input buffer
[FF_EXPERIMENTAL]
ENABLE_GYRO=1
DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0
DAMPER_GAIN=1.0  ; Set to 0 for Logitech g920
[SOFT_LOCK]
ENABLED=1

Finally using ff_post_process.ini found at Users\******\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg have a custom FFB lut made using this little lut generator. http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/lut-generator-for-ac.9740/

[HEADER]
VERSION=1
TYPE=GAMMA
ENABLED=1
[GAMMA]
VALUE=0.5
[LUT]
CURVE=mylut.lut

 

Im no setup Guru, but my understanding of rake angle is it helps promote a little more weight shift forward under braking and having a higher rear will also allow a bit more roll at the rear while minimal front ride will tighten up the front roll so will help loosen the car up a touch. This should also help mid corner to exit keeping a bit more weight off the rear allowing the car to rotate a bit more. It means you will need to be quicker to catch the car as its more likely to step out on you but can gain a little apex and exit speed by avoiding understeer. I dont think there is any general rule of thumb as every car and track is a bit different, the KTM for example is very limited in setup options so using the ride height you can make balance changes that in other cars you could do with roll bars and suspension adjustments. In cars with limited options its fun to play around with things like camber, toe, pressures and ride heights to try and make the car do a bit more what you want if that's all you have to play with.

More rake can also create a bit more downforce though its not going to be huge raising the angle of wings and also raising the rear a little relative to front will help airflow to diffuser and may gain a bit here. Aero gains in this car are likely insignificant with small rake changes but it will have a small impact on balance. In general though if your not able to lap very consistently within a few tenths each lap don't focus too much on tiny gains in setup especially changes that may make the car less stable which trying to loosen a car up a bit mostly is. Aim just to work on tyre temps and pressures to get optimal grip at first then once your able to make consistent enough laps where you can notice small changes in setup its then time to play around with some of the fine tuning options that may gain a few tenths but make the car a bit more on edge.

 

The .lut isn't going to work unless you change the TYPE=LUT, at the moment you're running just gamma of 0.5.

Ride height:
- With all cars lower ride height lowers the cg, which generates less weight transfer and thus more grip. Lowering ride height changes suspension geometry and sometimes it can cause issues (roll center movement, toe&camber values, decreased distance to bumpstops...), sometimes it may fix issues. It's trial&error for most.
- With aero cars keep an eye out for splitter/diffuser(s) heights and sometimes AOA (angle of attack) is important to keep at certain level (F138 comes to mind).
- You never want to INCREASE weight transfer towards front under braking in cars that have adjustable brake bias, it will just increase your stopping distances.

 

In most scenario, but there are exception as usual.

 

Give me one example then.. I'm interested.

 

917 30

 

Thanks regarding the lut will need to change that.

The KTM has no brake bias control, braking isnt all about the actual straight line brake distance, adding some more load on the front tyre will help turn in which is where trail braking helps.

Even if you may be on the brakes a bit longer in actual time and distance, braking much deeper to the apex means you can start braking later then someone that brakes harder and faster in a straight line but then coasts from turn into apex.

You can carry more speed to the apex this way so even if having less braking potential in a straight line you can still brake later and corner faster which is much more important.

 

I wouldn't be following the AI braking points and lines either. I've found the AI can brake really late into corners and if I try to match them I can't. But if I brake earlier and do my normal line I end up catching up to them either in the middle of the corner, somewhere on the exit or on the following straight.

I'd say that you should practice solo so you know the track and try and improve your laptime, find out what laptime the AI do and then and try and beat it on your own. Then go back and apply what you've learned to the race and just avoid copying the AI, do your own braking points and lines.

The AI don't seem to suffer as much through warm up, they just come out and can go fast straight away. I find that the short races don't really suit the AI as much anymore, in a 5 or 6 lap you might have only gotten the car warmed up by the time it's over.

 

Noticed that, too.

Do you know anything about the Gyro setting? I read a Kunos dev say it was developed for the stronger DD wheels because they needed help reducing oscillation. Any benefit to the using it with belt driven wheels? From the dev's response, it seems to function like a damper. Not sure if that would be good for less powerful belt and gear driven wheels.

 

Technically you should keep up with the AI if you use about the same line & braking point.

Most of the time I out brake them & have my line more exaggerated, but if I do the same, I get about the same grip & braking point.

 

Loving it!

Do G27 or G29 owners require the Gyro setting then? We aren't belt driven.

 

No settings are exactly needed, its just worth trying. I tried it and got better feel from it so prefer it on. There is no one way to do anything and my settings arent a rule you must follow its just what I use and for me works well.

It may or may not work well for you but only one way to find out. If you think your settings arent great then its worth trying but ffb settings arent going to instantly make you faster and better in traffic.

 

Those are some 'interesting' settings @martcerv
The 1.0 brake linearity if 'only' for load cell brakes
This:
DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0
should mean that gyro is doing nothing

And you are using GAMMA FFB with no min force which should equate to having a pretty large deadzone.

I've raced with you enough to know that those settings work for you, but they shouldn't. Odd.
----------------------------------

The Gyro effect can be used by most all wheels; it adds the gyroscopic forces created by the rotational mass of the front wheels. It is more pronounced in open wheel cars than tin tops and it basically adds a progressive additional weight to the FFB at speed. Stefano has told me that if he could start over with AC it would be baked into the FFB without the option to turn off.

Choosing LUT vs GAMMA ffb is where the type of wheel comes into play. LUT FFB will smooth out the 'steps' that are inherent in gear driven wheels, while GAMMA is fine for belt driven wheels since they are already smooth. Using LUT will actually make them feel more like a gear driven wheel but does have the benefit of not needing to find the optimal min force setting since it isn't needed.

As evidenced by marty's settings, and the number of people that use LUT with Fanatic and Thrustmaster wheels, the only 'correct' settings are the ones that make the wheel feel the way you want it to.

 

I did say my FFB settings were pretty basic lol, seems I mostly just had stock settings.

So this shows ffb setup really has very little effect and a g27 is no handicap in general.

 

Uh, me too stuck on this one. I think I'm stuck for over half a year already. This series is where I stopped playing this game altogether. Really hope they can give losers like me some breathing air and have a chance to at least see the whole game past "novice levels".

 

Why not set up your own events rather than give up on the game? The career is just a series of preset car/track combos anyway.

Here's one, download New Jersey Motorsport Park mod and the Ford Mustang 302 Boss. Set a track day with plenty of the S and drift version BMW's, the odd cup car like the MX5, some tuned Japanese cars and 911's, got to have a GT3 RS in there and also some other American stuff like the Corvette. Put about 3% variation and 0 aggression. See what you can keep up with in your Stang You might find a nice little battle like on a real track day. I had fun trying to chase a 911 GT3 RS around there...Oh and I nearly died, which is always exciting! Unfortunately there was a crazy hill climb car testing there that day making everyone else feel slow

(sound mod is OTT but adds drama )